Skip to content
Offline You are offline — showing a saved version of this page.
A new version is available.
Back to list

Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
5
Hlaváč
From W along the ledge left into the valley wall, up to the Piton via the original route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Hlaváč
From W to the ledge of the "Normal Route", from there diagonally right above the overhang… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Vaiomink
By corner over 2 Pitons n.t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Udírna
To the left of the "Valley Chimney" on "Wolf's Lair" via a narrowing chimney n.t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Udírna
Through the center of the wall briefly by crack and traverse right above the bivouac and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Čarodějnice
From W through the chimney to the balcony, up the edge over the Piton, left into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Čarodějnice
From S, jump from the massif n.v. Rock Climbing
2
Čarodějnice
From S, descent by corner in the massif, left along the ledge and overhang n.v. Rock Climbing
2
Hlaváč
From W diagonally left into the valley wall, along the ledge left to the crack, up it to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Čarodějnice
From S by chimney between the massif and the tower n.v. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
2
Vaiomink
By chimney n.t. Rock Climbing
6-
Udírna
Through the center of the wall along the crack and slightly left to the 1st Piton.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Vlčí hlava
Along the NE edge via 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Vlčí hlava
Up the valley wall between the routes "You Can't Stop Time" and "Gordian Knot" via 2 K to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Vlčí hlava
In the right part of the massif via the crack-chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
6-
Sestra
From the valley side right of the chimney, up the wall to the 1st K. Diagonally left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Vlčí hlava
Up the center of the valley wall via 2 K to the ledge and right along the rounded edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Sestra
Up the chimney between M and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Maškara
From the plateau turret, jump to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Maškara
Descend from M and overflow into the crack of the original route. Rock Climbing
4
Maškara
To the left of the plateau edge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Maškara
From the NE, up the chimney to the crack and to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Maškara
Up the chimney from the plateau side to the edge of M and via the route "Overflow" to the… Rock Climbing
2
Maškara
In the plateau wall, descend from M and by overflow to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Sestra
By an overflow from the top of "Little Brother" into the wall and briefly to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Sestra
By stepping over or jumping from the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Sestra
Up the center of the valley wall via 2 K directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Okenní věž
In the left part of the upper wall diagonally up to the balcony and via the SE face to… Rock Climbing
7
Okenní věž
From the upper side from the right edge of the window directly up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Sirotek
Via the valley wall over the 1st bolt into the crack, up it to the balcony and over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

Nobody is looking for a partner here yet — be the first.