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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
3
Divočák
Through the West chimney straight up. Rock Climbing
7
Divočák
From the boulder at the N wall, mantle into the wall, briefly up (hourglasses), traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Divočák
From the bivouac from E, up the overhanging crack straight up. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Divočák
From the hourglasses of the original route, traverse left into the indentation and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Jezinka
In the upper wall, mantle and left straight up. Rock Climbing
7
Mocná skála (Masiv u Jezinky)
In the left part of the N wall over 5 K no topo. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Divočák
Right of the East chimney, up the indistinct edge over K straight up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Divočák
Through the chimney straight up. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Pštrosí bobky
From the north block to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Pštrosí bobky
Through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Pštrosí bobky
By stemming/jamming between the North Block and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Pštrosí bobky
Through the east chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Byrsa
From the block by the Northwest face, drop/traverse into the face, right to the edge and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Rozpoltěnka
From the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Rozpoltěnka
Through the chimney from the south to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Rozpoltěnka
By the east face along the right edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Rozpoltěnka
Through the center of the East face to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Krchleb
From the east massif, step over to the ledge below the rappelling anchor. Rock Climbing
4
Krchleb
In the left part of the East face from the ledge left to the shelf on the edge and up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Byrsa
From the fore-rock, drop/traverse into the North face, left to the edge and to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Krchleb
From the north massif, step over to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Krchleb
Through the east chimney, then at the top by the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Rozpoltěnka
By the edge to the right of the south chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Rozpoltěnka
Through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Věž ochránců přírody
Through the chimney to the ledge (loop) and by stemming/jamming to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Věž ochránců přírody
From the massif, step over to the center of the tower. Rock Climbing
7
Kufr
Through the right part of the upper wall over K (piton/bolt) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Věž ochránců přírody
Through the crack over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Věž ochránců přírody
From the massif, step over to the right part of the tower. Rock Climbing
4
Věž ochránců přírody
Through the chimney between M and the left part of the tower to the top. Rock Climbing

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