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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
1
Věž ochránců přírody
From the massif to the left part of the tower. Rock Climbing
5
Věž ochránců přírody
By the left valley crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Kufr
Through the middle of the upper (SE) wall to the top. Rock Climbing
?
Kštice
From the massif, jump to the inclined wall and straight up, or from the left, to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Chudolazská věž
Through the left part of the upper wall over K (piton/bolt) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Chudolazská věž
From the north along the crack to the right onto the ledge to the spike (belay). Up under… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Chudolazská věž
Start in the middle of the upper wall, diagonally right up the wall to K (piton/bolt) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Kufr
To the left on the SW wall over K (piton/bolt) to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Kštice
From the north in the corner to the terrace and up the western wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Chudolazská věž
In the left part of the upper wall through the window to the bench to K (also an overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Kufr
Up the left upper edge to the end of the crack (knot) and by stemming to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
7
Kufr
From the north via a short gully to the balcony and along the edge over K (piton/bolt) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Gama
To the right of the N edge, difficult, to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Gama
In the upper wall from the right to the ledge and directly to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Gama
Up the SE wall to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Vlčí hrad
Through the middle of the valley wall over K into the cave, up onto the boulder and via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Vlčí hrad
In the SW wall via the crack diagonally left to the terrace and via the W wall to the… Rock Climbing
5
Větrník
From the highest point of the upper wall with dynamic climbing to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Větrník
Via the left part of the N wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Větrník
Via the East wall through the gullies to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Větrník
From the fore-rock on the W side of the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Vlčí hrad
From "Fortna" to the SW summit. Rock Climbing
7
Větrník
In the left part of the S wall along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Vlčí hrad
Via the left valley part of the wall over 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vlčí hrad
In the right part of the valley (NW) wall into the niche, diagonally right to K, up onto… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Vlčí hrad
Passage through the small chimney to the terrace, left onto the boulder and via the W… Rock Climbing
3
Vlčí hrad
From the upper side, traverse into the NE chimney (hourglass) and via it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Vlčí hrad
In the left part of the upper chimney to the 'hourglass' in the Fortna wall, step over… Rock Climbing
3
Fortna
In the right part of the upper (SE) wall via a horizontal crack under the summit block… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Fortna
Via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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