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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
2
Branka
Through the chimney between the massif and the left edge of the tower and to the right… Rock Climbing
4
Branka
To the right of the 'Gate Route' over the overhang and to the right upwards to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Čtyrák
Through the hollow along the eastern edge over the 'clock' (feature) upwards to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Skrytá
By stepping over/crossing from the massif upwards to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Čtyrák
Through the middle of the southeast wall over the 'clock' (feature) upwards to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Čtyrák
In the valley wall through the window to the corner, onto the ledge (clock) and upwards… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Čtyrák
Through the chimney between the massif and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Skrytá
Through the hollow over the ledge upwards to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Opička
In the S wall into the notch and upwards to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Čtyrák
From the massif onto the tower. Rock Climbing
2
Skrytá
Through the chimney between the Massif and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Čtyrák
Along the upper/plateau edge over the 'clock' (feature) upwards to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Siréna
In the N wall via a small pillar and crack to K and left over the overhang n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Složená
Open chimney along the crack to the bench and briefly n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Složená
From the massif to the bench and briefly n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Složená
Through the chimney in the SW part of the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Složená
Through the crack onto the ledge and briefly upwards to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Složená
Short chimney between the massif and the tower to the bench and briefly n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Siréna
Up the center of the wall, left to the edge and n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Siréna
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Všehlava
Right of "The Nose" route over the overhang n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Všehlava
Left of the "Madlenka" route, wall n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Siréna
In the SW wall, through the corner to a shelf, along the crack (loop) and right to K. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Všehlava
From the overhang in the SE wall with a difficult climb to a prominent nose and then… Rock Climbing
5
Siréna
In the right part of the plateau wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Kamlova busta
Along the curved right plateau edge, to the right beyond the edge and n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Kamlova busta
In the left part of the plateau wall over a small overhang and slightly left n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Kamlova busta
Along the crack in the plateau (N) wall n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Všehlava
Overhanging wall to the right of the plateau edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Siréna
Along the NW edge over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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