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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
3
Fortna
In the left part of the upper (SE) wall over the overhang to the edge of the flake and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Vlčí hrad
From the NE fore-rock, step over into the wall of the NE summit, crawl through the tunnel… Rock Climbing
4
Vlčí hrad
By stemming between Fortna and the SW summit to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Fortna
From the fore-rock on the W side of the tower via the crack to its end, step right and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Triumvirát
By the valley wall to K (Klettersteig/climbing route marker) and gully n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Triumvirát
Through the chimney between the E and middle summit n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Triumvirát
In the S wall of the middle summit from the right to the 'hours' (pitons/bolts) and to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Triumvirát
By the NE edge of the E summit n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Triumvirát
In the south wall, the right part of the central pillar directly n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Triumvirát
By the NE edge of the middle summit and higher to the left along it over the 'hours' … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Triumvirát
To the right of the NW edge through the middle of the summit over the notches (two 'hours… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Triumvirát
By the left S chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Triumvirát
Through the chimney between the middle and W summit n. v. Rock Climbing
1
Triumvirát
From the upper side, step over into the wall and briefly n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Triumvirát
In the left part of the E wall over the overhang n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Diblík
By the structured wall n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Čertova skála
By friction between the tower and the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Čertova skála
In the upper wall from the right onto the ledge and directly upwards to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Diblík
By corner crack n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Čertova skála
From the massif descend to the tower and fall over n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Čertova skála
Along the S edge upwards to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Diblík
Through the chimney between the towers n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Diblík
From the shelf next to the gully in the massif, step over into the high wall and n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Branka
In the right part of the valley wall, through the crack to the 'gate' (notch/gap) and via… Rock Climbing
2
Branka
From the massif, from the pine tree, by a jump/traverse into the middle of the tower. Rock Climbing
1
Branka
In the left part of the upper wall, through the small chimney via a straddle/stemming,… Rock Climbing
5
Branka
At the end of the tower, via a small wall to the top and further upwards to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Branka
To the left of the huge 'clock' (feature) upwards to the corner, to the right into the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Opička
Along the SE wall upwards to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Branka
From the massif onto the left part of the tower and to the right upwards to the summit. Rock Climbing

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