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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
1
Sirotek
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Sirotek
Via the chimney between the massif and the tower. Rock Climbing
6
Okenní věž
From the upper side to the right and up the wall along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Sirotek
Via the right valley (SW) edge via 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Okenní věž
Up the wall and right onto the balcony of the Southeast Route and via it to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Okenní věž
From the boulder on the upper side, by standing up from the overhang and to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Pohunek
From the terrace on the upper side, up the wall to the right to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Kravská věž
Via the Northeast edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Kravská věž
Via the chimney between M and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Kravská věž
Through the middle of the North face via a hole to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Lasička
From the massif via a jump to the top. Rock Climbing
1
Kravská věž
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Kravská věž
Via the narrow East face via a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Kravská věž
In the right part of the North face along the edge via a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Kravská věž
Start in the left part of the South face, diagonally left into the hole towards the bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Pohunek
From the terrace left to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Pohunek
Via the valley (NE) edge via a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Špalek
SW edge via bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Lasička
W edge to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Špalek
Along the NE edge straight up. Rock Climbing
2
Lasička
Via the upper chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Jezinka
Right of the "Normal Route" via a small pillar straight up. Rock Climbing
5
Špalek
Via the small pillar at the W edge, higher up along the edge straight up. Rock Climbing
5
Špalek
In the South wall diagonally left to the SW edge, onto the ledge and traverse left into… Rock Climbing
6-
Špalek
SE edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Špalek
Right buttress in the S wall directly to the ledge and to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Jezinka
Along the rounded valley edge over numerous hourglasses to the ledge at K, friction… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Divočák
In the right part of the NE wall directly up the wall to the 1st K. Over the hole … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Divočák
Left of the East chimney, up the wall to K. Left to the edge and easily straight up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Divočák
Start at the NE edge, traverse left along the ledge to the 1st K of the route "Kněžna… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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