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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Bahník
In the left part of the summit wall briefly upwards and left onto the valley edge. Along… Rock Climbing
?
Kopřivnice
From the massif, 2 m descent to a ledge and step over to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Nedamovská věž
From SE through the chimney to the jammed boulder, further via the chimney or slab to the… Rock Climbing
2
Polední věž
Through the chimney between M and the tower, higher up the wall between "Normal Route"… Rock Climbing
5
Polední věž
Over the overhang to the NW edge and up the steps to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Polední věž
From the massif, step over and traverse to a ledge in the East wall, from there over a… Rock Climbing
2
Polední věž
From the massif, step over to the middle of the summit slab and to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Polední věž
Through the chimney between M and the tower 4 m upwards, traverse under the overhang to… Rock Climbing
5
Cimbuří
Completely to the left in the valley wall via a sloping notch to the 1st bolt, right into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Pírko
Via the narrow East wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Pírko
Via the South wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Pírko
Through the center of the West edge directly over the overhang into the "Normal Route"… Rock Climbing
1
Cimbuří
From the upper side via a notch into a short chimney in the West double tower and to the… Rock Climbing
2
Cimbuří
Through the chimney in the valley wall under the overhang, left onto the balcony and up… Rock Climbing
3
Pírko
Via the upper wall obliquely right and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Cimbuří
In the left pillar of the valley wall over the bolt to the top of the pillar. Via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Cimbuří
From the gully of the iron wall over the overhang to a ledge and to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Cimbuří
Via the wall of the West turret into a hole and slightly left to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Plešoun
Through the center of the upper face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Plešoun
Via the left upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Plešoun
Via the left valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Plešoun
Via the right upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Plešoun
Via the narrow, overhanging at the top, Northwest face to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Plešoun
Via the right valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Plešoun
Through the center of the valley face to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Plešoun
Via the narrow, overhanging at the top, Southeast face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Hadrburk
Via the NE edge and the East wall to the clock on the edge. Traverse left to the balcony… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Čepička
Via the North face approximately below the rappel line upwards (watch) and slightly right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Čepička
Through the center of the South face over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Plešivecká brána
In the Southwest face, via the right corner crack to the terrace. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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