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Climbing at Kokořín region

9924 routes
30 areas
1–10 grades

Kokořínsko lies in Central Bohemia between Mělník, Mšeno and Dubá, about an hour's drive from Prague. A government regulation of 9 April 2014 defined the protected landscape area as Kokořínsko – Mácha's Country, covering roughly 410 km². It is hilly country with steep sandstone formations, canyon-like valleys, caves and overhangs, especially in the Pšovka valley in the south. Well-known features include the lid-shaped Mšeno "Pokličky", the Devil's Heads, Zkamenělý zámek and rock dwellings; above Kokořínský důl stands 14th-century Kokořín castle, with the Ronov and Helfenburk ruins and Houska castle nearby.

Climbing is on sandstone towers, walls and blocks scattered through the forests; the local tradition is looked after by the Lezecký klub Mšeno Kokořínsko, which published a two-volume guidebook (southern and northern areas) in 2020. Most crags lie in nature-protected areas, so climbing requires consent from the nature protection authorities and compliance with their conditions, and the sandstone rules apply (no chalk or metal protection, no climbing on damp rock). Before visiting, check current restrictions with the Czech Mountaineering Association, the Nature Conservation Agency and the rock-area moisture and closure maps. Trains run to Mšeno (south) or Blíževedly (north) and buses serve the villages; railings are rare on top of the formations.

Part of Czech Republic, Kokořín region has 9924 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 30 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • No metal protection (cams, nuts) – rings, slings, knots and "UFOs" only.
  • Climb ground-up only; top-roping is banned.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • No abseiling from trees or bushes.
  • No climbing on wet, snowy or icy rock – the rock is fragile, climb only when fully dry.
  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply (no chalk).
4
Strážce snů
Along a prominent ramp diagonally left to the edge and over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Strážce snů
From the plateau side into the chimney, through it to the end of the overhang and to the… Rock Climbing
1
Strážce snů
From the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Stěny u srubu
By crack over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Strážce snů
Middle of the plateau wall over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Ptačí masiv
By crack-chimney in the right part of the massif to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Strážce snů
Right part of the plateau wall over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Stěny u srubu
By corner to K, further up and left into the chimney, through it to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Stěna Kounického vrchu 3
By wall over iron rose to K, by edge to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna Kounického vrchu 3
Via a small crack to the 1st K (anchor), then into the cave and left through another… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Stěna Kounického vrchu 3
Through the crack over 2 Ks (anchors) to the balcony via the wall. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Stěna Kounického vrchu 3
Completely left by crack to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Strážce snů
Start from the valley side by the left chimney to the ledge to K, traverse right across… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Strážce snů
Right part of the valley wall along the edge upwards over 4 K, further right into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Strážce snů
By chimney between the tower and the wall of Kounice Hill to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Stěna Kounického vrchu 3
Left by crack over K and further by wall to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna Kounického vrchu 1
In the right part of the wall over the overhang to the 1st K (anchor), then along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Stěna Kounického vrchu 1
Right part of the wall over 4 Ks (anchors). Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Stěna Kounického vrchu 1
Left part of the wall over 4 Ks (anchors). Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna Kounického vrchu 2
Right part of the wall of the second block over 2 Ks (anchors) to the rappelling K … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Stěna Kounického vrchu 2
To the left of the "Eye of Dawn" route, up the wall over 2 Ks (anchors) to the rappelling… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Stěna Kounického vrchu 2
Through the chimney between the 2nd and 3rd block, over hourglass and K (anchor) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Stěna Kounického vrchu 2
Through the crack over 3 Ks (anchors) to the rappelling K (anchor). Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Stěna Kounického vrchu 1
East wall over 4 Ks (anchors). Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stěna Kounického vrchu 1
Middle of the wall over 3 Ks (anchors) into the crack and through it. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Klec na blázny
Left part of the valley wall (variation). Rock Climbing
7
Tříkrálová stěna
In the left part to the block, from the left via a small crack to the ledge, up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Tříkrálová stěna
Up the wall along the diagonal crack over a K (anchor) and a rappelling K (anchor). Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Klec na blázny
Left part of the plateau wall (variation). Rock Climbing
7
Bloková hradba
To the last block, left side of the S wall, over 3 Ks (anchors). Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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