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Climbing at Kyjov - Brtníky

495 routes
89 areas
2–9/9+ grades

Kyjov – Brtníky is a sector in the north-eastern part of Bohemian Switzerland National Park, with almost 500 routes on 89 sandstone towers – for example Malý and Velký Plačtivý kámen, Kráva, Obří hlava, Brtnická věž (Strážce Křepelčího dolu), Brtnický kostel, Věž Bílého potoka and Býk. Protection is traditional – rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 9/9+.

Part of 9. Bohemian Switzerland NP, Kyjov - Brtníky has 495 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9/9+. Explore its 89 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay.

Rules

Inside the national park you may climb only on permitted rocks.

The park administration announces seasonal access bans each year for sites with nesting birds. Some towers are closed permanently (the "Jetřichovice – zakázané" sector). Check the ČHS crag database and the park administration's website before every visit.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Malý Plačtivý kámen 25 routes Velký Plačtivý kámen 21 routes Kráva 13 routes Obří hlava 12 routes Brtnická věž (Strážce Křepelčího dolu) 11 routes Brtnický kostel 11 routes Věž Bílého potoka 11 routes Býk 11 routes Brtnický kámen 10 routes Náhodná věž 10 routes Tlustá teta 10 routes Němý svědek 10 routes Zámecká věž 9 routes Tři stoly 9 routes Slunovratový kámen (Trojče) 9 routes Martinova věž 8 routes Kuncova stěna (Rákosová stěna) 8 routes Dvojitá věž 7 routes Loupežník 7 routes Poradní skála 7 routes Brtnická stěna 7 routes Volská stěna 7 routes Velbloudí věž 7 routes Rybářská bašta 7 routes Velký muž 6 routes Převislá věž 6 routes Korunková jehla 6 routes Orlí věž 6 routes Vyhlídka 6 routes Dietrichův kámen 6 routes Vlk 6 routes Hradní jehla 6 routes Kyjovský král 5 routes Meloun 5 routes Železná věž 5 routes Kohoutí věž 5 routes Zadní kužel 5 routes Strážce Temného dolu 5 routes Hraniční kámen 5 routes Zpustlý kastelán 5 routes Jarní věž 5 routes Sněhová královna 5 routes Borový kámen 5 routes Tlustá paní 5 routes Bivoj 5 routes Domov důchodců 4 routes Strážce Malého krkavčího dolu 4 routes Velká medvědice 4 routes Černokněžník 4 routes Smrtka 4 routes Stěna nad ohništěm 4 routes Malý muž 4 routes Volská věž 4 routes Markétina věž (Kopretinová věž) 4 routes Rákosník 4 routes Křinická branka 4 routes Vodník 4 routes Vůl 4 routes Pašerák 4 routes Drahokam 4 routes Říjnová (Říjná) jehla 4 routes Strážce Šternberka (Lesní duch) 4 routes Volský kužel 3 routes Železná ostrožna 3 routes Svíčka 3 routes Lahvička 3 routes Vlčí doupě 3 routes Temný kámen (Hejkal) 3 routes Kastelánka 3 routes Krtek 3 routes Lísková věž 3 routes Strážce klenotnice 3 routes Hraniční jehla 3 routes Pytel 3 routes Brtnička 3 routes Temná jehla 3 routes Tlustý strýc (Pachole) 3 routes Malý zbrojnoš 2 routes Čertův kámen 2 routes Pavučinový hrad 2 routes Veverka 2 routes Výspa Bílého potoka 2 routes Computer 2 routes Žhář 2 routes Schovanka 2 routes Paleček 2 routes Giselina skála 2 routes Strážce Žabiho rohu 1 route Homolka 1 route
4+
Orlí věž
Briefly in the chimney of the Old Route, face diagonally right to the clocks and edge to… Rock Climbing
6
Orlí věž
In the center of the valley face, crack and face over 3 rings to the Old Route and then… Rock Climbing
5
Orlí věž
To the left of the Old Route, face diagonally left to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Orlí věž
From the upland side, chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Brtnička
From the right onto the South edge and face along it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Kyjovský král
From the massif, jump to the step and take the "Old Route" to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Kyjovský král
Upland face to the ring. Build and face to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Kyjovský král
Chimney between the massif and the upland edge, then edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Železná věž
Northeast edge to the ledge to the ring of route c), then to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Železná věž
Crack in the south face (ring) to the ledge and gully to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Železná věž
North face to the platform and crack to the ledge. Traverse the face (ring) and face to… Rock Climbing
6-
Železná věž
West face (ring). Rock Climbing
4+
Železná věž
Southwest edge (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Býk
On the right in the south face. Rock Climbing
3
Býk
To the left, route d), crack to the balcony. Left, gully to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Býk
From the southeast onto a boulder by the east face. Ridge diagonally to the right. Rock Climbing
5+
Býk
To the right of the Old Route, corner to the platform. Build and crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Býk
In the left part of the north face, a corner to the balloon. Rock Climbing
4-
Býk
To the left of route e), ridge and crack to the balcony. Rock Climbing
5
Býk
To the left of the Old Route, up the wall to the footbridge leading left into the West… Rock Climbing
5
Býk
born. At the Northwest corner, build up to the edge and follow it past the bolt to the… Rock Climbing
5
Býk
Up the West face diagonally left to the ring. Up the wall to the balcony, over the… Rock Climbing
2+
Býk
Crack and chimney in the south face. Rock Climbing
2+
Býk
On the right in the north face, follow the crack to the balcony, then take the Old Route… Rock Climbing
5+
Vůl
m from the Hvězda route, up the wall and diagonally right along the crack, higher up… Rock Climbing
4-
Vůl
In the North face, up the crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Vůl
In the upper wall, near the edge to the footbridge (birch), traverse left and up the… Rock Climbing
5+
Volský kužel
Along the arched Southwest edge to the ring of the "Old Route". Left along the edge to… Rock Climbing
5
Volský kužel
On the left side of the South face to the footbridge, up the gully to the platform and… Rock Climbing
4+
Volský kužel
To the right of the southeast edge, build and use the gully to the sloping ledge. Up the… Rock Climbing

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