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Climbing at Kyjov - Brtníky

495 routes
89 areas
2–9/9+ grades

Kyjov – Brtníky is a sector in the north-eastern part of Bohemian Switzerland National Park, with almost 500 routes on 89 sandstone towers – for example Malý and Velký Plačtivý kámen, Kráva, Obří hlava, Brtnická věž (Strážce Křepelčího dolu), Brtnický kostel, Věž Bílého potoka and Býk. Protection is traditional – rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 9/9+.

Part of 9. Bohemian Switzerland NP, Kyjov - Brtníky has 495 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9/9+. Explore its 89 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay.

Rules

Inside the national park you may climb only on permitted rocks.

The park administration announces seasonal access bans each year for sites with nesting birds. Some towers are closed permanently (the "Jetřichovice – zakázané" sector). Check the ČHS crag database and the park administration's website before every visit.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Malý Plačtivý kámen 25 routes Velký Plačtivý kámen 21 routes Kráva 13 routes Obří hlava 12 routes Brtnická věž (Strážce Křepelčího dolu) 11 routes Brtnický kostel 11 routes Věž Bílého potoka 11 routes Býk 11 routes Brtnický kámen 10 routes Náhodná věž 10 routes Tlustá teta 10 routes Němý svědek 10 routes Zámecká věž 9 routes Tři stoly 9 routes Slunovratový kámen (Trojče) 9 routes Martinova věž 8 routes Kuncova stěna (Rákosová stěna) 8 routes Dvojitá věž 7 routes Loupežník 7 routes Poradní skála 7 routes Brtnická stěna 7 routes Volská stěna 7 routes Velbloudí věž 7 routes Rybářská bašta 7 routes Velký muž 6 routes Převislá věž 6 routes Korunková jehla 6 routes Orlí věž 6 routes Vyhlídka 6 routes Dietrichův kámen 6 routes Vlk 6 routes Hradní jehla 6 routes Kyjovský král 5 routes Meloun 5 routes Železná věž 5 routes Kohoutí věž 5 routes Zadní kužel 5 routes Strážce Temného dolu 5 routes Hraniční kámen 5 routes Zpustlý kastelán 5 routes Jarní věž 5 routes Sněhová královna 5 routes Borový kámen 5 routes Tlustá paní 5 routes Bivoj 5 routes Domov důchodců 4 routes Strážce Malého krkavčího dolu 4 routes Velká medvědice 4 routes Černokněžník 4 routes Smrtka 4 routes Stěna nad ohništěm 4 routes Malý muž 4 routes Volská věž 4 routes Markétina věž (Kopretinová věž) 4 routes Rákosník 4 routes Křinická branka 4 routes Vodník 4 routes Vůl 4 routes Pašerák 4 routes Drahokam 4 routes Říjnová (Říjná) jehla 4 routes Strážce Šternberka (Lesní duch) 4 routes Volský kužel 3 routes Železná ostrožna 3 routes Svíčka 3 routes Lahvička 3 routes Vlčí doupě 3 routes Temný kámen (Hejkal) 3 routes Kastelánka 3 routes Krtek 3 routes Lísková věž 3 routes Strážce klenotnice 3 routes Hraniční jehla 3 routes Pytel 3 routes Brtnička 3 routes Temná jehla 3 routes Tlustý strýc (Pachole) 3 routes Malý zbrojnoš 2 routes Čertův kámen 2 routes Pavučinový hrad 2 routes Veverka 2 routes Výspa Bílého potoka 2 routes Computer 2 routes Žhář 2 routes Schovanka 2 routes Paleček 2 routes Giselina skála 2 routes Strážce Žabiho rohu 1 route Homolka 1 route
5+
Volská věž
Unprotected! Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Volská věž
Southeast edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Volská věž
Crack in the South face. Unprotected! Rock Climbing
3
Volská věž
Along the Southwest edge to the platform. Build up to the summit. Unprotected! Rock Climbing
4-
Homolka
From the left upper edge, traverse along the ledge to the right, up the upper wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kohoutí věž
From the east, through a chimney between the tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Kohoutí věž
In the west face, through a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kohoutí věž
Through the center of the South face directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kohoutí věž
From the east massif, a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Kohoutí věž
From the southwest, descend from the massif to the ledge near the edge and jump to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Veverka
By the south edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Lísková věž
By the northwest edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Lísková věž
From the west massif, a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Lísková věž
From the west, through a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Giselina skála
Up the right upper edge, diagonally left through the wall to the balcony and to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Giselina skála
By the left upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Borový kámen
In the west wall, a corner and chimney directly into the chimney of the Western Route. Up… Rock Climbing
4-
Borový kámen
Like the Old Route to the saddle, descend left down past the large clock into the chimney… Rock Climbing
4-
Borový kámen
From the west to the saddle, to the right and up a gully with an overhanging start to the… Rock Climbing
3
Computer
Like the "Windows" route, traverse left under the couloir and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Borový kámen
By the upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Borový kámen
From the west to the saddle, building up in the plateau wall and diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce klenotnice
In the lower wall, a gully with an overhanging start to the balcony and up the Old Route… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Hradní jehla
From the upper end of the steps, traverse a chimney, slightly down and up a short chimney… Rock Climbing
2+
Hradní jehla
From the east, up a plateau chimney over a wedged block and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Hradní jehla
From the northwest in the middle of the plateau wall, up a chimney, higher up a step-over… Rock Climbing
4-
Hradní jehla
From the northwest, up a chimney and couloir to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Hradní jehla
To the right of the southwest edge, up a chimney and edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Hradní jehla
In the middle of the lower wall, through the hole directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Svíčka
Lower wall under the overhang to the 1st bolt and right a gully past the 2nd bolt to the… Rock Climbing

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