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Climbing at Kyjov - Brtníky

495 routes
89 areas
2–9/9+ grades

Kyjov – Brtníky is a sector in the north-eastern part of Bohemian Switzerland National Park, with almost 500 routes on 89 sandstone towers – for example Malý and Velký Plačtivý kámen, Kráva, Obří hlava, Brtnická věž (Strážce Křepelčího dolu), Brtnický kostel, Věž Bílého potoka and Býk. Protection is traditional – rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 9/9+.

Part of 9. Bohemian Switzerland NP, Kyjov - Brtníky has 495 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9/9+. Explore its 89 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay.

Rules

Inside the national park you may climb only on permitted rocks.

The park administration announces seasonal access bans each year for sites with nesting birds. Some towers are closed permanently (the "Jetřichovice – zakázané" sector). Check the ČHS crag database and the park administration's website before every visit.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Malý Plačtivý kámen 25 routes Velký Plačtivý kámen 21 routes Kráva 13 routes Obří hlava 12 routes Brtnická věž (Strážce Křepelčího dolu) 11 routes Brtnický kostel 11 routes Věž Bílého potoka 11 routes Býk 11 routes Brtnický kámen 10 routes Náhodná věž 10 routes Tlustá teta 10 routes Němý svědek 10 routes Zámecká věž 9 routes Tři stoly 9 routes Slunovratový kámen (Trojče) 9 routes Martinova věž 8 routes Kuncova stěna (Rákosová stěna) 8 routes Dvojitá věž 7 routes Loupežník 7 routes Poradní skála 7 routes Brtnická stěna 7 routes Volská stěna 7 routes Velbloudí věž 7 routes Rybářská bašta 7 routes Velký muž 6 routes Převislá věž 6 routes Korunková jehla 6 routes Orlí věž 6 routes Vyhlídka 6 routes Dietrichův kámen 6 routes Vlk 6 routes Hradní jehla 6 routes Kyjovský král 5 routes Meloun 5 routes Železná věž 5 routes Kohoutí věž 5 routes Zadní kužel 5 routes Strážce Temného dolu 5 routes Hraniční kámen 5 routes Zpustlý kastelán 5 routes Jarní věž 5 routes Sněhová královna 5 routes Borový kámen 5 routes Tlustá paní 5 routes Bivoj 5 routes Domov důchodců 4 routes Strážce Malého krkavčího dolu 4 routes Velká medvědice 4 routes Černokněžník 4 routes Smrtka 4 routes Stěna nad ohništěm 4 routes Malý muž 4 routes Volská věž 4 routes Markétina věž (Kopretinová věž) 4 routes Rákosník 4 routes Křinická branka 4 routes Vodník 4 routes Vůl 4 routes Pašerák 4 routes Drahokam 4 routes Říjnová (Říjná) jehla 4 routes Strážce Šternberka (Lesní duch) 4 routes Volský kužel 3 routes Železná ostrožna 3 routes Svíčka 3 routes Lahvička 3 routes Vlčí doupě 3 routes Temný kámen (Hejkal) 3 routes Kastelánka 3 routes Krtek 3 routes Lísková věž 3 routes Strážce klenotnice 3 routes Hraniční jehla 3 routes Pytel 3 routes Brtnička 3 routes Temná jehla 3 routes Tlustý strýc (Pachole) 3 routes Malý zbrojnoš 2 routes Čertův kámen 2 routes Pavučinový hrad 2 routes Veverka 2 routes Výspa Bílého potoka 2 routes Computer 2 routes Žhář 2 routes Schovanka 2 routes Paleček 2 routes Giselina skála 2 routes Strážce Žabiho rohu 1 route Homolka 1 route
5
Říjnová (Říjná) jehla
From the northwest, a gully and chimney between the massif and the tower, higher up via… Rock Climbing
2+
Svíčka
From the plateau side to the right, and a short gully and couloir to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Říjnová (Říjná) jehla
Southeast gully to the saddle and chimney. Rock Climbing
4-
Říjnová (Říjná) jehla
From the east to the saddle and onto the boulder near the plateau wall. Wall and edge. Rock Climbing
3
Říjnová (Říjná) jehla
From the massif down a chimney, left around the small tower, down and over a waterfall to… Rock Climbing
4+
Svíčka
On the left in the plateau (NE) wall to a widening gully and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Lahvička
Like the Old Route to the E edge and right to the higher saddle, At the right uphill edge… Rock Climbing
3
Markétina věž (Kopretinová věž)
From the saddle to the right over slabs and chimney. Rock Climbing
5
Markétina věž (Kopretinová věž)
Left uphill edge. Rock Climbing
2
Markétina věž (Kopretinová věž)
From the east to the saddle, left wall, gully and chimney. Rock Climbing
5+
Markétina věž (Kopretinová věž)
In the northwest wall, standing from the boulder and ledge to the right. Narrow chimney … Rock Climbing
5
Bivoj
On the left of route a) chimney between the tower and the massif to the wedged boulder… Rock Climbing
4-
Bivoj
From the valley side, on the right through a gully between the massif and the tower,… Rock Climbing
3
Bivoj
From the north, gully to the chimney. Overgrown ledge in the massif to the left to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Lahvička
From the ledge in the massif from the south, corner and crack to the foot of the… Rock Climbing
3
Lahvička
From the ledge in the massifs, chimney from the east to the foot of the southeast edge.… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Bivoj
To the right of route c) chimney in the massif and gully to the pulpit. Jump to the left,… Rock Climbing
4+
Bivoj
On the left in the valley wall, diagonally to the right. Crack to the balcony and on the… Rock Climbing
5+
Zpustlý kastelán
On the left in the valley wall, corner crack to the saddle. Chimney and right (ring) and… Rock Climbing
4-
Zpustlý kastelán
Chimney along the left uphill edge, then chimney and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Zpustlý kastelán
On the left in the massif, briefly descend, jump to the step under the abseiling ring and… Rock Climbing
3
Zpustlý kastelán
From the uphill side, chimney diagonally to the right. Then wall or chimney. Rock Climbing
2
Zpustlý kastelán
Rock Climbing
5+
Kuncova stěna (Rákosová stěna)
Chimney between the massif and the tower (northeast edge) to the niche and traverse right… Rock Climbing
4+
Kastelánka
By the upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Kastelánka
Descent through the center of the massif and jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Kastelánka
Chimney between the massif and the tower to the ring. Traverse right and face. Rock Climbing
4-
Kuncova stěna (Rákosová stěna)
Chimney between the massif and the tower. Then face to the right and edge. Rock Climbing
2+
Kuncova stěna (Rákosová stěna)
On the right in the west face, a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Rákosník
Chimney between the tower and the massif and left to the edge and beyond the edge. Along… Rock Climbing

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