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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

3
Večerníček
Rock Climbing
5
Večerníček
Middle of the slab to the ring and to the right n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Večerníček
Rock Climbing
6-
Večerníček
Right part of the slab along the edges. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Tunelová
From the summit of Panenka with a graceful traverse to the shelves, small bowls and… Rock Climbing
2
Tunelová
From the East via the chimney to the fore-rock and briefly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Tunelová
5+
Tunelová
To the right in the valley wall to the ledge and along it to the left to the 'hours'. Via… Fixed belay
?
Tunelová
From the valley via a loose/friable crack over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Tunelová
3
Tunelová
5m left of St. c. post. By friction n. v.
7-/7
Včelí úl
In the right part of the wall, up the overhanging wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Chaloupka
IX;, 12. 6. 1992. Through the center of the valley wall to the ring and diagonally to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Chaloupka
From the plateau wall, via a slab directly to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Trilobitka
Detached valley edge n. v.
5
Chaloupka
From the plateau side onto the ridge and along it to a small plateau with trees. Along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
?
Chaloupka
From E corner into the inclined wall (ring) and straight. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Trilobitka
Wall to the left of the valley edge n. v.
2
6-
Trilobitka
Along the sharp edge n. v.
2+
Trilobitka
2+
Reprodrozd
Jump from Ostrorep n. v.
2+
Reprodrozd
Through the chimney between the tower and Ostrorep and then an ascent n. v.
4-
Žlutej nesmysl
To the right in the wall directly n. t.
6
Reprodrozd
Via the ramp to the ledge to K. Over the large ledge directly n. v. Fixed belay
5
Žlutej nesmysl
In the middle of the wall directly n. t.
5+
Žlutej nesmysl
4+
Žlutej nesmysl
?
Loutkový kámen

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