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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

3
Bludná
Along the small crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Bludná
Via the hand crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Bludná
Through the middle of the small pillar to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Bludná
In the NE face in holes diagonally right to the bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
Přeskok
Kosmik
By jump/traverse Rock Climbing
7
Máchův masiv
In the SW face, traverse right in holes and lift to the ring. Up the wall and higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Bludná
Rock Climbing
6-
Bludná
In the north face, up the middle over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Bludná
Wide crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Kosmik
Up the crack and gully. Rock Climbing
3
Kosmik
Up the chimney and overhang. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Kosmik
Up the wall along the edge via the ring to the ledge and from the left via the second… Rock Climbing
2
Kosmik
Up the chimney and overhang. Rock Climbing
7
Zelená sněhurka
Left crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Zelená sněhurka
Right crack under the 'salted' block and below it to the left, climbing/scrambling up. Rock Climbing
6
Tuleni
To the right of NC, through the middle of the pyrite wall, later along the left edge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Tuleni
Up the wall from the right into the chimney and through it. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Tuleni
Left in the SE face via an overhanging crack over the dK to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Tuleni
"N. c." three meters, left over the slab to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Tuleni
Right in the NE face through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Tuleni
Rock Climbing
4-
Tuleni
Left of the "Smooth Chimney" through the double crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Protéza
Up the ramp to the ring, through the right crack to the 2nd ring, from the left to the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Medvěd (Žitavská věž)
From the plateau side, left of the chimney, up a short wall and along the ridge to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Medvěd (Žitavská věž)
Through a short chimney, left, up a ramp and wall to the ring. Directly over the overhang… Rock Climbing
3
Medvěd (Žitavská věž)
Through the corner and chimney below the summit and right up the wall. Rock Climbing
?
Protéza
Step over.
5
Cukrová homole
In the plateau wall, completely to the left, with significant aid climbing to the ledge,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Cukrová homole
Up the wall diagonally left to the ring, over the bulge into the crack and through it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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