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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

5
Pindruše
Along the crack to the fore-rock face, later along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
?
Krajková
From the plateau side to the balcony, by a jump to an oblique ledge and over an… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Krajková
Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Krajková
Through the chimney to the boulder, left along the edge to the balcony and "N. C." to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Krajková
Through the left chimney in the NE face, crawl through a tunnel to the balcony and "N. C.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Krajková
Gullies to the balcony and by the "NW crack". Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Krajková
Through a crack to the right in the SE face to the East ridge, left through a notch to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Krajková
By stemming between the fore-rock and the S edge to the ledge. Gullies to the right and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Krajková
Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Rákos
Through a squeezing chimney. Rock Climbing
4
Rákos
Through a crack with loose blocks. Rock Climbing Danger
2
Peřina
Via the crack and steep section to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Rákos
Via the slabby small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Rákos
Via the pleasant small crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Rákos
Via the corner crack. Rock Climbing
5
Peřina
Via the small wall using pockets to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Peřina
Via the crack to the balcony and via the steep section to the NE false summit. Traverse… Rock Climbing
4
Rákos
Via the small pillar/pinnacle to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Peřina
Via the arête to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Peřina
Difficult into the wide crack on the left, and via the 'Nightmare' route to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Peřina
Directly via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Peřina
From the 'chrrr fííí' crack to the balcony and 'Mlask' to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Peřina
Via the wall over the ledges to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Peřina
Via the sloping wall near the arête to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Peřina
Via the slab diagonally left to the bolt and from the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Peřina
Via the arête to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Bludná
Middle of the pillar over the ring directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Bludná
Via the North arête over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Bludná
On the SE wall, left, through the middle of the small pillar via the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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