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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

5+
Zářivá věž
From 1st K directly n. a. Fixed belay
4-
Zářivá věž
Up the small face three meters left of the Old Route, over an overhang to a ledge by a… Rock Climbing
4-
Uranová věž
Along the crack in the Southeast face to the summit. Loose! Rock Climbing
4-
Uranová věž
In the right part of the Northwest face over the slab to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Uranová věž
Up the middle of the Northwest face left of the Normal Route via a crack. Rock Climbing
2+
Zářivá věž
Up the middle of the Southeast face via a gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Uranová věž
Up the Northeast edge along the hours to the summit. Loose! Rock Climbing
3
Uranová věž
Up the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Uranová věž
To the right of the Normal Route directly up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Kyselá věž
In the North face through a hole to holds and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Kyselá věž
From the SW via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Strážovská věž
Up the North face to the gallery (hours), up the face over K to the summit. Note: the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Strážovská věž
From the overhang along the shelf to the right to the NE edge. Via a diagonal crack and … Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Strážovská věž
Right edge of the south face over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Písková věž
Start 2 meters right of the base of the tower directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Malá kavčí skála
Up the small face just right of the Old Route (two hourglasses), a short crack (knot,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Narozeninová věž
Up the center of the plateau south face and right along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Písková věž
Up the center of the southeast face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Narozeninová věž
By opposition and a small crack to the fore-summit, then a dynamic move to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Malá kavčí skála
Left part of the valley face to the ring and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Malá kavčí skála
In the center of the valley face via the chimney. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Malá kavčí skála
Up the face over a small overhang (protection) on a brittle wall (hourglass) to the ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Malá kavčí skála
Right of the Old Route over the overhang to the hand crack. Through it to the ledge,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Malá kavčí skála
Up the center of the valley face to the ring, then directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Malá kavčí skála
Start right of the Southeast Route via an overhanging brittle crack under a small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Malá kavčí skála
Right in the plateau face over the overhang (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Malá kavčí skála
Up the center of the narrow west face, traverse left and along the edge to the ring, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Malá kavčí skála
Along the southwest edge into the notch and through it over the ring to the summit. Salty. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Malá kavčí skála
3m left of the Old Route along iron-rich slabs to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Malá kavčí skála
Between the Old Route and the Iron Route, via a small chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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