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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

2+
Ergátus
Through the chimney from the north to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Děvínská palice
In the west face, start by the edge, higher obliquely left by the wall into the gully and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Děvínská palice
Through the center of the east face over two spires into the notch and via it to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Děvínská palice
By the edge of the plateau ravine on the right side up. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Děvínská palice
From the ring of the route "Overhanging Wall" directly over the overhang and by the gully… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
5
Děvínská palice
Northwest face over the overhang to the ring. Traverse on holds to the right to the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Slepičí říše
By the wall to the right of the corner over 2 BH to the shelf, from there directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Pop
Through the middle of the wall into the gutter/groove crack and by that to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Pop
Climbing up to the edge and straddling it all the way to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Popova skála
Through the chimney to the left of the step and via the slab. Rock Climbing
2
Pop
Rock Climbing
3
Pop
Western edge. Rock Climbing
5
Pop
Over the laid-back wall via knobs and holes to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Popova skála
Overhanging wall to the right of the slab directly below the overhanging crack and along… Rock Climbing
4
Popova skála
Short overhanging small wall via the 'sokolik' into the slab and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Popova skála
Briefly below the overhang and along the small crack BH into the slab. Rock Climbing
3
Popova skála
Through the valley chimney. Rock Climbing
9
Popova skála
Via the 'sokolik' to the ledge, over the overhang into the right crack and along it to… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Popova skála
Along the crack over the roof (slings) into the wall and along the crack over another… Rock Climbing
7
Popova skála
Left, overhanging small wall of the chimney, higher up through a narrow chimney below the… Rock Climbing
9
Popova skála
From the edge to the ledge and then traverse left below the left crack. Along it to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Popova skála
Left edge of the chimney to the ledge, "Pomlázková c." above the overhang and along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Popova skála
Through the middle of the pillar wall to the ledge by building up to the ledge and to the… Rock Climbing
7
Popova skála
Along the right edge via the slab and crack to the ledge, through the overhang to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Popova skála
Along the wall at the edge into the crack, along it to the ramp, again to the edge and in… Rock Climbing
3
Popova skála
To the right of the step, over the overhang onto the slab, along it and through the crack… Rock Climbing
5
Popova skála
In the middle of the wall through the corner and from the left to the ledge. Rock Climbing
4
Popova skála
Hand crack to the ledge, left through the corner to the pillar and right along the small… Rock Climbing
4
Pindruše
Through the middle of the valley wall over several nests and spires n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Pindruše
Through the middle of the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing

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