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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

5
Jedová věž
Through the center of the valley wall via the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Jedová věž
In the left part of the valley wall, by a crack. Where it disappears, turn left to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Jedová věž
From the summit of the Luminous Tower across the gorge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Jedová věž
Right of the S edge via a corner to a ledge and up the wall n. a. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Jedová věž
Just to the right of the S edge to the balcony and from the left n. a. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Jedová věž
Up the middle of the plateau's friable wall (spike on the right) to a ledge and further… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Jedová věž
Directly up the wall and through a crack into the "South Route". Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Jedová věž
Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Jedová věž
1.5 m right of "Poisoned Route" via an overhanging wall directly n. a. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Jedová věž
Up the narrow southwest wall to the balcony and from the left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Jedová věž
Briefly like the Old Route and left onto a ledge. Traverse the entire southeast face… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Zářivá věž
Via the overhanging edge to the balcony and to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Zářivá věž
Start in the fall line of the second circle of the Direttissima directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Zářivá věž
Start between Zářivá and Jedova Tower. Diagonally up left into a horizontal crack and… Rock Climbing
4-
Zářivá věž
Four meters right of the Old Route, up a small wall past the hourglasses to the birch… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Jedová věž
Through a notch into the saddle between Zářivá and Jedova Tower and up a small wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Jedová věž
Up the blasted wall over the hourglasses to a ledge, difficult to the balcony and via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Zářivá věž
From NW via a crack between Jedova and Zářivá Tower into the saddle, like the Simple…
4-
Zářivá věž
On the left side of the valley wall along the iron slab to the circle and then up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Zářivá věž
Via the route Good Ostrich to a horizontal notch and then traverse right to the first… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Zářivá věž
Four meters left of Havířská manual, up a crack in an iron slab. Rock Climbing
5
Zářivá věž
Three meters to the right of the left valley edge up the wall via a circle. Rock Climbing
5+
Zářivá věž
Up the wall between the routes Direttissima and Path to the Promised Land to the middle… Rock Climbing
5
Zářivá věž
Five meters to the right of the left valley edge along prominent cracks. Rock Climbing
3
Zářivá věž
Up a small wall in the gorge between Jedova and Zářivá Tower, to the left of the… Rock Climbing
2+
Zářivá věž
Easily into the saddle between Jedova and Zářivá Tower and a small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Zářivá věž
Four meters to the right of the gap between Jedová and Zářivá Tower over a loose overhang… Rock Climbing
4+
Zářivá věž
Two meters left of the Prubířská Route via a crack to a hole and over a ring to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Zářivá věž
Two meters left of Havířská up the face to a ledge, via a small crack to a small saddle… Rock Climbing
5+
Zářivá věž
Between the routes Old Times and To the Promised Land via two circles. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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