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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

6
Děvínská věž
To the right of the valley edge along the crack and over the overhang to the bench. … Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Děvínská věž
Through the crack four meters to the left of Lustr to the first ring. Left to the second… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Děvínská věž
From the lowest point of the tower along the south ridge over three rises to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Děvínská věž
Along the crack about three meters from the right edge of the east face to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Děvínská věž
Approach along the overhanging crack like 'Penzistova Cesta', above the overhang… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Strážce stolové hory
Through the gully and a short wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Děvínská věž
From the saddle between the massif and the tower, traverse right into the west face and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Děvínská věž
From the saddle between the massif and the tower, up a structured corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Rourák
From the gorge, along the shelf to the ring and onto the balcony of the valley edge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Rourák
From the gorge, first by opposition, then up the wall to the summit. Hourglass on the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Rourák
Through a dirty indentation in the valley wall from the left into the gorge. Rock Climbing
4-
Děvínská věž
Middle of the east face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Děvínská věž
Up the wall to the left of the northeast ridge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Rourák
From the massif, descend (on a rope pull) to the top of the tower and then jump to the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Přizděná věž
As the "Plateau Route" up to the footbridge. 3m left to the gully, down by friction and… Rock Climbing
5
Palohlavská věž
Up the small plateau wall to the left rounded edge and to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Palohlavská věž
From the west edge, via the hourglass/chimney, up the wall to the right to the edge, and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Palohlavská věž
By rappelling from the massif into the right part of the wall and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Přizděná věž
Descending from the summit of the massif via overgrown gullies along pine trees into the… Rock Climbing
3
Přizděná věž
From the NE into the inner plateau gorge, up the chimney to the ledge, stemming to the NE… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Velký jelení vrch
3
Velký jelení vrch
Six meters to the right of the southeast edge, directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Velký jelení vrch
From the birch tree on the south face to the edge with squeaky but holding stones (piton)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Přizděná věž
Through a deep chimney from the southwest, first over crumbling and then brittle terrain… Rock Climbing
6
Přizděná věž
Through the right part of the valley wall through a hole into a crack, traverse left, to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Velký jelení vrch
Through the chimney in the left part of the east face. Rock Climbing
5+
Jedová věž
To the left of the start of the original "Lízina Štěk" (Liza's Bark) directly up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Jedová věž
From the Luminous Tower, descend via the "Poisoned" route to the chimney. Up the old… Rock Climbing
4
Jedová věž
Start at the fall line of the saddle, along the crack to its level, then right up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Jedová věž
Four meters left of Vávr's Coffee, directly up the wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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