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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

6-
Půlená skála
Along the northern edge over two overhangs to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Potupená skála
From the corner to the left of the N edge, over the overhang to K and along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Půlená skála
To the left of the start of the Old Route, up the wall, higher up via steps (to the left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Půlená skála
In the right half of the NE face, through the middle of the wall to the summit. (abseil) Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Půlená skála
From the fore-rock on the SW face directly through the middle (artificial steps) to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Půlená skála
From the W via steps or chimney. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Potupená skála
From the large balcony on the NE face, via a widening crack to the summit. (cobblestones) Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall +1
3
Potupená skála
Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Potupená skála
Through the tunnel from the S. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Potupená skála
6-
Mijnheer
Up the crack in the valley wall to the end. Traverse right to the edge (block), higher up… Rock Climbing
5
Mijnheer
Left on the plateau side, up the wall (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kafr
From the ground up the right plateau edge (from the overhang diagonally right into a… Rock Climbing
2+
Mijnheer
From the plateau, right downwards and traverse along the ledge to the crack, which widens… Rock Climbing
6
Mijnheer
Up the crack left of the Plateau Wall under a small overhang and directly up the left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Mijnheer
Along a short plateau edge. Rock Climbing
3
Kafr
In the plateau wall (post.) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Kafr
In the valley wall, up the pillar to the ring and from the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Kafr
Left on the plateau side, up a chimney between the tree and the rock, and with a swing-up…
3
Chrastenská stěna
From the large tree below the right part of the southeast face, traverse right under the… Rock Climbing
5+
Kafr
Up the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Kafr
In the left part of the plateau side, up a small wall (without using a tree) through… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Věž Kravího dolu (Podvršská věž)
With significant aid (building) near the left valley edge and up the rib over (K), by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Chrastenská stěna
Along the south ridge over two humps to the summit. Artificial steps in places. Belaying… Rock Climbing
6-
Věž Kravího dolu (Podvršská věž)
From the left to the SE edge and along it via the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Věž Kravího dolu (Podvršská věž)
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Věž Kravího dolu (Podvršská věž)
Up the overhanging plateau wall to the grassy summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Věž Kravího dolu (Podvršská věž)
From the rock up the SE edge directly to the ring of the "Calf's Birth" route and along… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Kavčí skála
Along the NW edge 1st ring to the fore-rock, overhanging wall 2nd and 3rd ring to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kavčí skála
Between the Old Road and Dědek's Road, directly up the wall to the ring, up the corner to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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