Skip to content
Offline You are offline — showing a saved version of this page.
A new version is available.
Back to list

Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

7/7+
Velká smrtka
2m left of the NW edge up the wall and left via a small rib left into the Záškolácká crack Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Velká smrtka
Via a crack 4 m right of the NW edge to a large ledge. (Also called 1st variant) Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Velká smrtka
Through the middle of the upper N face over a ring into a crack and via it to a ledge. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Velká smrtka
Via the overhanging NW edge to a ledge and up the wall to a large balcony. Rock Climbing
6-
Velká smrtka
Left in the N face via a gentle rib to a large ledge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Velká smrtka
Via a crack 2 m right of the NW edge to a large ledge. (Also called 2nd variant) Rock Climbing
4+
Velká smrtka
Via the variant and directly up the middle of the pillar Rock Climbing
3
Velká smrtka
From the eastern fore-rock of Malá Smrtka by jumping into the right part of the south… Rock Climbing
5
Velká smrtka
Same as Kristýna's Crack, under the second overhang traverse right to the S balcony and… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
7
Velká smrtka
Start left of the direct route onto the SW edge and up that to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
4-
Velká smrtka
Via the left crack in the W face to the traverse, left to the large ledge in the N face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4-
Malá smrtka
Up the short rib of the Spiral Route and to the crack, then via it to a small ledge on… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Velká smrtka
Via a zigzagging, slightly overhanging crack in the right part of the W face to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Velká smrtka
From the traverse directly (supplied ring) and up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Malá smrtka
In the middle of the S wall via a short crack and right via a smooth gully to the end of… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Malá smrtka
To the right in the E wall via the corner and shallow cracks (ring) to the E fore-summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Malá smrtka
SW edge, in places from the left, to the ledge of the Spiral Route. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Malá smrtka
To the right in the S wall via a crack and chimney into the traverse of the Spiral Route. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Malá smrtka
Up the S chimney briefly to a small ledge and right to the ring. Right along the edge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Malá smrtka
Via the short crack of Honza's Route and left via the gully over the ring to the ledge of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Malá smrtka
To the left of the Short Route via a fine crack (ring) to the ledge and up steps to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Malá smrtka
To the right in the E wall via the wall left of the edge to the E fore-summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Malá smrtka
From the ring right to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Malá smrtka
Up the wall 1 m left of the Spiral Route (crossing the Spiral Route traverse) to the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Malá smrtka
Above the start, a crawl/passage to the valley side of the tower. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Malá smrtka
From the passage between Malá and Velká Smrtka by chimneying/stemming to the fore-summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Malá smrtka
To the left of the Spiral Route via the crack to the fore-summit. Step across and up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Gahlerova věž
SW edge and wall to the left (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Gahlerova věž
Middle of the valley wall (3 rings). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Gahlerova věž
SE edge to the crack right of the edge, through this to the ring, short traverse left,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

Nobody is looking for a partner here yet — be the first.