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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

7-/7
Gahlerova věž
As the Left variant of Kauschka's gully via the crack and further to the ring, left via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Gahlerova věž
From the ledge St. c. via the left edge (ring) directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Gahlerova věž
From the ledge via the gully in the middle of the wall and the upper direct variation. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Gahlerova věž
From the right to a short crack and further to the balcony. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Gahlerova věž
From the tooth straight. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Gahlerova věž
Via the NW edge and a small chimney/corner and left to a ledge in the N wall (large knot)… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Liberecká
Completely left in the SE wall, traverse left on friction and via a winding crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Liberecká
5 m left of the Sabre Crack, via a shallow crack, a wide gully and a friable crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Liberecká
From the slab via a small pillar (ring) to the ridge and then via the "Ridge Route" to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Liberecká
From the starting wall directly to the saddle. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Liberecká
Via a small wall on the SE edge, left into the crack, under the overhang and right along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Liberecká
Under the overhang, left through the crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Liberecká
From the small cave directly into the crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Liberecká
2m left of the N edge, overhanging wall to the overhanging wall of the Direct variation. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
5+
Liberecká
To the left in the W face, via the longest crack to the summit (to the right above the … Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Liberecká
Along the NW edge (ring) to the ledge, then right up the overhanging face and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Liberecká
To the right of the "Samá voda" route, up the overhanging face via 2 rings, then the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Liberecká
To the left in the W face, up the face and a crack to the overhang. To the right through… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Liberecká
To the left of the "Broken Crack", via a crack (ring), then another crack and a corner to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Liberecká
2m to the right of the NW edge, up the overhanging face and a crack to the ledge. Up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Liberecká
From the lowest point of the valley face, friction climb into the corner. To the left via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Liberecká
To the right of the broken crack, along the crack (ring) to the ridge. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Liberecká
Up the middle of the NW face via a wide crack to the Ridge Route and then this to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
5
Liberecká
2 m to the right of the oblique crack, via a crack to the ridge. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Liberecká
To the left in the valley face, up the face and an overhanging crack to the ridge. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Liberecká
To the right of the Shadow Crack, up the overhanging face via 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Liberecká
From the western edge, left along a receding rib and crack to the ridge and up the face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Půlená skála
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Půlená skála
From the SE corner along the crack diagonally right into the hollow and via steps to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
5+
Půlená skála
Along the eastern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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