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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

4
Semenáček
Via the NW edge over the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4
Semenáček
To the left of St. c. via a small wall over the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4
Semenáček
Diagonally right to the 1st bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Jantar
Via a distinctive edge in the valley wall directly to the bolt, above it into a gash,… Rock Climbing
4
Semenáček
From the West via a sloping gash to the balcony and via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
1
Semenáček
In the uphill wall freely to the summit.
6+/7-
Jantar
Via a crack in the right part of the valley SE wall over K to the balcony and via a crack… Rock Climbing
6
Buková věžička
Up the E face via K and slightly right to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6
Buková věžička
From K of the route "I lie in the hands of the sun" slightly left to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
9/9+
Buková věžička
Through the center of the valley wall via BH directly to the summit. (The Sokolík on the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
2+
Buková věžička
From the massif, traverse/jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Buková věžička
Via the right uphill edge to the balcony of "Old Way" and via a crack to the right of … Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
5+
Buková věžička
To the left of "I lie in the hands of the sun" diagonally left up the wall to the valley… Rock Climbing Danger
4-
Buková věžička
Like "Old Route" to the balcony and right with a long traverse under the overhang of the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
3
Buková věžička
To the left of "Old Route" up the wall over a ledge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Buková věžička
To the right in the plateau wall to the balcony and left up the wall with artificial… Rock Climbing
4-
Buková věžička
Left plateau edge and right via the "Plateau Wall" to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Cvičná věž
Directly up the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Pozůstalost
Left valley edge to the ledge, then traverse left and to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
6
Pozůstalost
To the right in the E face along the edge to a ledge and left into the gully of the route… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
7/7+
Pozůstalost
Right valley edge via BH to the ledge and traverse right. Up the gully to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
2
Pozůstalost
From the plateau, easily to the top and descend left via carved steps to the balcony. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Pozůstalost
To the left in the W face via the corner and further to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Cvičná věž
In the middle of the E face over the overhang and cracks to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Cvičná věž
Via the plateau edge to the left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Velká smrtka
Completely to the right in the west face, overhanging wall via Bh into a crack and follow… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Cvičná věž
From the valley above the fireplace, over 2 bolt hangers to the ring of the Valley Wall,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Cvičná věž
Eastern route over the overhang and traverse left into the center of the valley wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Velká smrtka
Through the center of the pillar to the right of the crack and hand crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Velká smrtka
Up the wall 3m left of the NE edge Rock Climbing

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