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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

4+
Dášenka
To the right in the S wall via bridging/chimneying to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Dášenka
From the right plateau edge traverse right to the valley edge and along it over the bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Dášenka
Via the left valley edge directly to the bolt of the 'Pilots to the Start' route and… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Dášenka
Through the middle of the valley wall over 3 bolts, higher up with the edge to the summit… Rock Climbing
5
Dášenka
From the massif descend via a crack to the ledge and then over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Dášenka
From the middle of the S wall, traverse left onto the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Závětří
To the left of the 'Saffian Wind' route via the wall over a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
3
Závětří
In the left part of the massif via a crack under the overhang and to the left via a crack… Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall +1
Přeskok
Dášenka
Jump from the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Dášenka
By stemming in the middle of the plateau wall into a crack and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Dášenka
From the balcony in the W wall from the left over the overhang to the bolt, higher up via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Závětří
Like 'Ypsilonka' under the overhang and over it to the right via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall +1
7-/7
Ještěrka
Via the blunt edge to the left of the 'Left Route' directly into the corner of the … Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Ještěrka
In the right part of the S wall over quartz nodules to the ledge and from the right to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Ještěrka
In the middle of the S wall (in line with the bolt) via the wall over quartz nodules to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Závětří
In the right part of the massif via a prominent crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
6
Závětří
In the right part of the massif via the wall over a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4+
Ještěrka
In the left part of the S wall via the overhanging edge into a crack and straight up it… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Studený hrot
Along the NW valley edge over the bolt directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Ještěrka
About 3m to the left of the valley edge. In the W wall over honeycomb structures into a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Ještěrka
Via the "Dynamics of Movement" route into the break and via the overhang over the bolt to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Studený hrot
From the massif descend and traverse directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Studený hrot
Via the chimney between the tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Studený hrot
In the right part of the NW valley wall directly to the edge and via that to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Muflon
To the left in the upper part via a gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Muflon
Via the crack chimney in the E wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Muflon
From the W via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Muflon
Through the middle of the E wall over 2 bulges and via the wall (2 rings) to the abseil… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Muflon
Via the valley wall over a small overhang and via the wall (ring) to the ledge (hourglass… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Muflon
From the large beech tree along the upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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