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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

4
Pravý západní pilíř
In the right part of the Southwest wall directly to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4
Jihozápadní masív
Through the center of the black pillar over a balcony and a bolt to a shared abseil bolt… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
3
Pravý západní pilíř
Along the jagged South edge to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6-
Jihozápadní masív
In the right part of the valley wall, over a balcony and along the ridge to a shared… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
3
Jihozápadní masív
Cross the route "Šikmá hudba" directly through the center of the V-shaped rock slab to a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
2
Východní pilíř
Via the "Chamois Path" route to a small beech tree that closes the gully. Briefly left… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5-
Nebeská zeď
In the right part of the valley wall to the common abseil bolt with a quicklink. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
2
Jihozápadní masív
In the V-wall from the right onto a ramp running to the left and further along a slightly… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5+
Nebeská zeď
In the middle of the valley wall to the common abseil bolt with a quicklink. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4
Nebeská zeď
In the left part of the valley wall to the common abseil bolt with a quicklink. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6+/7-
Divadelní stěna
In the middle of the North wall to a pillar and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Východní pilíř
In the left part of the East wall, from the right or directly to the prominent gully and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5
Východní pilíř
Directly up the middle of the East wall to the large pine tree to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
2
Východní pilíř
From the valley from the NE along the right ridge (piton) up to the large pine tree to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
2+
Východní pilíř
Along the East ridge (piton below the summit) up to the large pine tree to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
2+
Divadelní stěna
Along the Southeast edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Divadelní stěna
In the middle of the South wall directly to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Piklštejn
4m right of the "Old Route" directly up the wall over a bolt to the East shoulder and via… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
?
Divadelní stěna
From the South to a block and by jumping to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Divadelní stěna
Along the West edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Piklštejn
Left of the "West Couloir" route up the wall along the left edge (bolt) to the large… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3
Piklštejn
Along the East edge to the East shoulder. Via the "Old Route" to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Piklštejn
In the right part of the North wall over two ledges, further through a corner and crack… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
4
Piklštejn
Below the west corner to the left over steps and onto a ledge around the edge to the tree… Rock Climbing
2
Piklštejn
From the west corner to the large balcony of the "Old Route" and then to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Piklštejn
In the North wall through a corner and over 2 ledges to a crack, through it and the wall… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow +1
5
Piklštejn
Left of the "Southwest Route" along a sharp edge and wall to the large balcony of the … Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6
Piklštejn
To the right in the South face along the rib to the break (hourglass) and over an… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Textile belay
9-
Piklštejn
Through the middle of the smooth South face over 2 bolts to the large balcony of the "Old… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Piklštejn
To the right on the West side via a notch to the pillar and up the wall to the large… Rock Climbing

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