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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

1
Javorohorská věžička
Along the right plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Javorohorská věžička
Along the SW edge to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
1
Javorohorská věžička
On the plateau side to the left. to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Javorohorská věžička
Along the NW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Javorohorská věžička
1m left of the SE edge directly up the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4
Javorohorská věžička
Through the center of the North wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Vnadidlo
Along the East edge via a ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Tchýně
To the left of the route "Black Regent", up the wall over 2 rings directly into the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Tchýně
Along the West wall diagonally right to the ring, directly up the wall and edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vnadidlo
Through the center of the valley wall via a ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Vnadidlo
In the left part of the plateau wall directly to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Vnadidlo
Left of the right valley West edge directly onto the "Old Route" balcony and then along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Tchýně
Start via the route "Edge of the Cowardly Bat", after the traverse up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Tchýně
To the right in the South wall, a crack up to the end, traverse along ledges (protection)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Rupicapra
Along the jagged left valley West edge over a large balcony to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5+
Tchýně
A short, slightly overhanging edge to a ledge. Up the wall, traverse approx. 4m left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Rupicapra
Through the center of the Southwest valley pillar, up the wall over ledges and a large… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4
Rupicapra
Along the South wall over a large balcony to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4
Rupicapra
Along the Southeast wall in the upper part of the massif directly to a shared abseil BH… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
2
Levý západní pilíř
From the right onto the valley edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
3
Levý západní pilíř
Along the jagged Southeast wall from the slope to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5
Levý západní pilíř
Through the center of the valley Southwest pillar over a balcony to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5
Levý západní pilíř
In the left part of the valley Southwest wall of the pillar, up the wall over a balcony… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4
Rupicapra
Along the Southeast wall in the upper part of the massif to the left of the route … Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4+
Pravý západní pilíř
In the left part of the valley Southwest wall (TGM inscription) directly up the wall to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4+
Pravý západní pilíř
Along the Southwest wall to the left of "Artificial Intelligence" directly to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4
Pravý západní pilíř
Through the center of the Southwest wall directly to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4
Pravý západní pilíř
3m to the right of the left West edge to an abseil bolt with a ring. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
3
Pravý západní pilíř
Along the jagged West edge to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
3
Jihozápadní masív
Along the left valley edge over a bolt with a ring to a shared abseil bolt with a ring. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1

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