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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

6+
Piklštejn
Via the "West Couloir" route to a small balcony and to the right across a bolt along the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
7
Piklštejn
Along the Southwest ridge over 3 bolts to the large balcony of the "Old Route" and along… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3
Piklštejn
From the start of the "Old Route" left via a crack to a large balcony on the South side… Rock Climbing
4-
Hnízdo
From the start of the "Old Route" diagonally left up the wall to a ledge and along the… Rock Climbing
5+
Hnízdo
Through the middle of the valley (North) face over an overhang into a crack and directly… Rock Climbing
5
Hnízdo
From the Northwest ridge via a horizontal notch to the left and up the overhanging wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Hnízdo
Through the middle of the plateau South face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Hnízdo
In the plateau South face, to the right of the route "Direct Plateau Route", along the… Rock Climbing
3
Hnízdo
Directly up the Southwest face (carved steps) to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Studená věž
Along the Southwest ridge about 6 m up, diagonally right to the Southeast ridge and along… Rock Climbing
6-
Studená věž
In the right part of the valley wall, over the circle from the left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Vrtošivý stařík
Directly up the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Danger
4-
Vrtošivý stařík
Directly up the valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Danger
6
Vrtošivý stařík
To the right of the plateau edge, up the wall over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Danger
4-
Studená věž
Through cracks in the East face to the Southeast ridge and along that to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Vitráž
In the right part of the valley South face through a distinctive indentation, over an… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Studená věž
Directly up the Southeast ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Studená věž
From the saddle via a chimney (or a step from the massif) to the plateau and diagonally… Rock Climbing
6
Vitráž
In the left part of the valley South face, through a corner and diagonally right, over an… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
4-
Studená věž
Via the "Old Route" to the plateau and up the wall on the left directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Vitráž
In the middle of the valley South face through a crack to the end, left into the route … Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
7-/7
Malá Studená věž
Via the right valley edge over a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Malá Studená věž
Via the ramp and small chimney/gully in the S wall to the bolt. Upwards and left onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Malá Studená věž
Along the Western edge over K to the summit. Fixed belay
5+
Malá Studená věž
From the ramp in the S wall upwards into the gully/notch and through it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Malá Studená věž
Via the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Malá Studená věž
Through the middle of the N wall from the block over the belly (bulge) to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Malá Studená věž
Through a distinctive notch in the East face directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Dášenka
Jump from the right edge of the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Dášenka
Up the plateau wall directly (below the rappel point) to the summit. Rock Climbing

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