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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

2
Malý Tolštejn
To the right in the NW face upwards and through the gully, higher up to the left onto the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6
Stožecký hrot
Through the small triangular wall directly over the bolt (normal route). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
2
Malý Tolštejn
In the middle of the NW face into an overgrown corner and to the left upwards onto the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
3
Stožecký kámen
Left of the East edge directly up the wall (normal route). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
9-
Stožecký hrot
SW face via 2 bolts (normal route). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Stožecký hrot
Along the NW valley edge via 2 bolts and a small crack directly (normal route). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
2
Stožecký kámen
From the saddle between Stožecký hrot and the tower, via a stepped wall diagonally left… Rock Climbing
4
Stožecký kámen
Directly up the SE ridge (piton) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Stožecký hrot
In the plateau wall to the block and then slightly diagonally right up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
1
Stožecký kámen
Left of the SE edge via the chimney (inside) to the ridge. Normal route to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Stožecký kámen
To the left of the "Wonderful Chimney" over the overhang to the ledge to the bolt and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7
Stožecký kámen
To the right of the "Wonderful Chimney" via the wall and overhang to the bolt, then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7
Šikmé varhany
In the left part of the NW valley wall via the bolt directly to the rappelling bolt. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
6
Šikmé varhany
Through the center of the NW valley wall via the bolt directly to the rappelling bolt. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
1
Stožecký kámen
To the left in the plateau wall via the edge (or the wall to its left) to the ridge and… Rock Climbing
5+
Stožecký kámen
In the middle of the valley wall via the chimney over the bolt and slightly along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Popel
SE ridge (normal route). Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Popel
Left crack in the East face (normal route).
3
Popel
From the west foothills via wall and crack (normal route).
3
Popel
NW ridge (normal route). Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Popel
On the left in the West wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Popel
On the right in the West wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Popel
Right crack in the East face (normal route).
4
Popel
NE ridge (normal route). Rock Climbing
6
Popel
Through the center of the valley's south face directly over the rivet (normal route). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
1+
Stěna inženýra Lubomíra Slavíka
Via the sloping wall to the left above the central corner to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
1
Popel
From the fore-rock along the NW ridge to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Stěna inženýra Lubomíra Slavíka
Right of the central corner along the pillar to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
6-
Stěna inženýra Lubomíra Slavíka
Left of the central corner via an overhanging, structured wall to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5
Javorohorská věžička
3m from the valley SW edge, over the overhang and up the valley wall to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing

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