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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

6
Dánský kámen
Along the NW edge higher overhanging to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Dánský kámen
To the right of the NW edge over a small overhang via a small corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
1
Dánský kámen
From the upper fore-rock up the small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Dánský kámen
To the right of the "NW wall" up a delicate small wall into a corner and to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Vlčí kámen
Up the narrow wall to the ring and via the slanting crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Vlčí kámen
Along the left upper edge via the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Janovický kužel (Valerián)
Through the middle of the overhanging upper (East) wall via holes to the ledge and as the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6-
Janovický kužel (Valerián)
Via the overhang from the fore-rock (bolt) to the West edge, along it to the ledge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Janovický kužel (Valerián)
From the lowest point (left of the Old Route) diagonally right to the valley (South) edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger +1
2+
Vlčí kámen
From the fore-rock using a carved groove to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Janovický kužel (Valerián)
Along the edge of the upper wall with artificial steps to the balcony and a step to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Vlčí kámen
Up the small upper wall under the overhang and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Severní železná věž
On the plateau's SE side onto a ledge to a wide crack and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Severní železná věž
Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Severní železná věž
To the left of the Old Route's edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Severní železná věž
Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Jižní železná věž
On the NE side (gorge to the North Iron Tower) via steps to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Jižní železná věž
Rock Climbing
5
Snadná věž
Rock Climbing
5+
Snadná věž
Rock Climbing
2
Jižní železná věž
In the middle of the plateau's SE side via steps to a short crack and then up it to the… Rock Climbing
2
Snadná věž
Along the southern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Snadná věž
Rock Climbing
1
Snadná věž
From the eastern end (from the plateau side to the right) via steps to the summit … Rock Climbing
6
Nebeská věž
From the right onto the edge and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Nebeská věž
With overhanging edge via 2 rings directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Nebeská věž
Ascend the valley wall through the holes, at the western edge to a ledge, from there left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Lůmek
Via the delicate wall over K and BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
7-/7
Nebeská věž
Through the center of the Southwest face via a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Nevděk
Rock Climbing

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