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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

3
Castor a Pollux
From the north to the right pinnacle. Rock Climbing
3+
Castor a Pollux
Up the east overhanging wall. Rock Climbing
3
Monte Rosa
To the right of the overhang, up the jagged wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Monte Rosa
Through the hollow to the end and then through the crack to the summit. Own protection. Rock Climbing
5
Monte Rosa
Through an inclined hollow, at the top over the overhang, to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Monte Rosa
From the saddle above Breithorn, up the E wall to the ridge and left or right. Rock Climbing
5
Monte Rosa
Up the middle of the S wall over the bulge, own protection, abseil anchor at the top. Rock Climbing
4
Monte Rosa
From the grassy hollow through a narrow crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Breithorn
From the terrace, to the right of the overhang, up the stepped wall. Rock Climbing
2
3
Breithorn
Up the stepped ridge from the road to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Breithorn
Up the central ridge from the road to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Breithorn
From the terrace through the chimney in the overhanging corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Breithorn
Left of the central edge, through a deep gully to the E wall and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Předskalí Malého Matterhornu
Up the left part of the wall via the Pestr rivet to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Předskalí Malého Matterhornu
From the south, up the overhanging edge into the sloping crack via a piton to the left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Předskalí Malého Matterhornu
To the left of the overhanging crack, up the wall over two bolts to the top. Note:… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Předskalí Malého Matterhornu
Fixed belay
2
Breithorn
Rock Climbing
5
Předskalí Malého Matterhornu
Start 4m right of Overhanging Crack up the wall slightly diagonally right, over the edge… Rock Climbing
4
Dánský kámen
From the southern corner, traverse right along the ramp under the largest overhang and… Rock Climbing
2
Dánský kámen
Start to the right of the SW chimney, diagonally right into a low-angle short wall and… Rock Climbing
2
Dánský kámen
Right of the Normal Route, up the chimney over a jammed boulder. Rock Climbing
3
Dánský kámen
From the S corner via a ramp to the right to the middle of the valley wall and directly… Rock Climbing
5
Dánský kámen
From the southern corner, traverse right along the ramp past the overhanging eastern edge… Rock Climbing
6
Dánský kámen
To the left of the "NW wall" via a delicate small corner and small wall (bolt) and over a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Dánský kámen
Through the middle of the valley wall via a crack, overhang and over two ramps directly. Rock Climbing
2
Dánský kámen
3m to the right of the Old Route along the edge and directly up the wall to the summit.
2
Dánský kámen
Completely to the right on the upper side, up the wall to the right around the S edge to…
4
Dánský kámen
Along the right valley edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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