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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

1
Kamenná vrata
Along the ridge to the summit.
4-
Červené skály
in the middle of the SE spur wall via a finger crack directly to the bolt Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
3
Červené skály
5
Krejčík
Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
6
Krejčík
From the plateau side via a corner and a small crack over the overhang. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
6+
Krejčík
Right side of the edge (piton) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Krejčík
Through the middle of the S wall via a hole to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
6
Krejčík
Fixed belay
4
Krejčík
From the middle of the south face diagonally right to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
8+
Krejčík
Left of the west edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
7-
Krejčík
Along the left valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
3
Krejčík
From N, over the fore-rock through a notch to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3
Krejčík
From the balcony of the NE edge, at the top left to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
2+
Krejčík
To the right of the NE edge, by a step in the corner onto the prominent block. Through a…
3
Mezihřeben
Left of 'Autumn Time' through the slab over ledges diagonally left n. t.
4
Mezihřeben
Left of 'Baking Tray of Buns' through a notch n. t.
4+
Mezihřeben
Left of 'Honzík's Knee' onto the edge of the East Wall over ledges and BH n. t. Fixed belay
?
Mezihřeben
Left of St. c. overhanging towards BH and along the edge n. t. Fixed belay
6
Mezihřeben
Left of 'Variant' from the left overhanging wall and further over BH n. t. Fixed belay
4
Mezihřeben
Left in the E wall left of 'Cranberry' through a crack n. t.
3
Mezihřeben
Left of 'Fingers' through a crack n. t.
4
Mezihřeben
Left of 'Eliška's' through slanted cracks over BH n. t. Fixed belay
3
Mezihřeben
Left of 'Something for Children' through the middle of the E slab n. t.
5+
Mezihřeben
Left of 3rd BH n. t.
5
Mezihřeben
Left of 'November' over 3BH n. t. Fixed belay
5
Lyskamm
Rock Climbing
3
Signalkuppe
From the valley in the S wall over a small overhang and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
4
Lyskamm
Overhanging, 5-8 m high wall with many ascent possibilities. Rock Climbing

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