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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

4-
Fellerova věž
7m left of the SE edge up the wall, through a chimney (ring) and crack to a small ledge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Fellerova věž
From the small ledge (block) right to the edge and further along the shaft edge. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Fellerova věž
Like Kirchhoff's Chimney, halfway up the chimney traverse left to a large ledge on the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Fellerova věž
4m left of the SE edge along a small crack to a large ledge on the edge, traverse 2m left… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
4-
Fellerova věž
2m left of the SE edge up the wall slightly right to a ledge on the edge, along it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
?
Fellerova věž
Start from the northeast, between the Šachtová hrana (Shaft Edge) route and Jižní var. … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Fellerova věž
Right of the SE edge via corner crack to a grassy ledge Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Fellerova věž
Completely on the left in the valley wall along the ramp left to a grassy ledge (wobbling… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Psí kostel
5m right of the route "Psí víno" (Dog's Wine) up the wall via the bolt to the balcony to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Psí kostel
In the middle of the valley wall from the left to the bolt, directly up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Psí kostel
4m left of the route "Psí kus" (Dog's Piece) directly up the wall via the bolt to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Psí kostel
In the right part of the NW wall via the pillar to the balcony to the 2nd bolt of the… Rock Climbing
5
Psí kostel
Through the crack in the SE wall into the depression, over the overhang and directly up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Jeschken 2
In the middle of the valley wall via a slab under a small wall, over it along a small… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
3
Jeschken 2
Left in the valley wall over an overhanging small wall, via a slab under another small… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
2
Jeschken 1
Left in the side wall into the gully and to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
3-
Jeschken 2
Right of Kajínek via a slab to the right edge of the overhanging small pillar and from… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
3-
Jeschken 2
Right of path 66. through the middle of the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
4
Jeschken 1
Through the middle of the side wall into a small corner, along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
5
Jeschken 1
Left in the valley face via a small corner under a small overhang, over it into the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
7
Vyhlídka Karolíny Světlé
Right in the valley face via 3BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Vyhlídka Karolíny Světlé
Left in the valley face via 3BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Vyhlídka Karolíny Světlé
On the left M via cracks below the overhang. Go around it to the right to the summit.
5
Vyhlídka Karolíny Světlé
In the middle of the massif in the fall line of the notch on the right side and over…
3+
Vyhlídka Karolíny Světlé
In the west face along the small cracks to the summit.
4
Máchova skála
Left of the Small Crack via 2BH to the summit. Fixed belay
3
Máchova skála
Left of the Pillar via a crack and indentation to the summit.
3
Máchova skála
Left via the NW pillar to the top.
1
Máchova skála
To the right in the valley wall, an indentation to the top.
5
Máchova skála
Along the valley edge over the small overhang (1st BH) and via a small crack over 2BH to… Fixed belay

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