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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

7/7+
Šachtová věž - západní
From the start of the Hradec Route, directly up the wall (2 pitons, ring) below the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Šachtová věž - východní
NW corner 4m and left onto the ramp. In the middle of the wall, left along a crack to a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Šachtová věž - východní
From the SE scree slope into the saddle between Shaft Tower (or from the south through a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Šachtová věž - východní
NW corner 8 m up and left up the wall (ring) to a small ledge, right through a notch to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Šachtová věž - západní
Left in the NW wall diagonally right through a corner to a ring and left along a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Šachtová věž - západní
Right of the edge, to the right of Hradec Route, up the wall over a piton to a ledge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Šachtová věž - západní
To the right of the North Face, up the wall, a crack, and left along the edge over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Šachtová věž - západní
In the middle of the south face along a crack (spike) to a ledge, left along a crack and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Šachtová věž - západní
To the right in the NW wall, via a crack in the corner to the pre-summit and through the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Šachtová věž - západní
To the right of the South Ridge, via a crack to the pre-summit and through the chimney to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Šachtová věž - západní
Left of Tuton cracks, a crack to the ring and the wall right to the crack. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Krkavcová
In the left part of the wall, over the overhang and wall into a crack and through it to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Šachtová věž - západní
To the right in the SE wall, through a small chimney (or from Hruška along the scree… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Krkavcová
In the middle of the wall, a crack into a groove, a ring, and directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Krkavcová
In the right part of the wall, over a vein into a groove, through it into a chimney and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Krkavcová
North face over the ledge to the ring and directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Šachtová věž - západní
Through the chimney or the plateau edge to the boulder on the south face, step over and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Šachtová věž - západní
To the left of the South Route, along the edge (small cracks) to the south summit,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Fellerova věž
Completely on the left in the SE wall via the middle finger crack of the low fore-rock to… Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall +1
5+
Fellerova věž
Completely on the right in the valley wall via a chimney to an arched ledge and left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Fellerova věž
Left of Gahler's Chimney directly up the wall (ring). Via gully and wall to a ledge on… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Fellerova věž
Right in the valley wall via a gully and chimney to a ledge on the west edge. Right to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Fellerova věž
Right of Gahler's Chimney, frictioning to the gully and up it over 2 rings to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Fellerova věž
Left in the valley wall via a step and frictioning right upwards to an overgrown gully in… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Fellerova věž
Right of route 'Jo králičí bobky' (Jo Rabbit Droppings) via a hand crack to the fore-rock… Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall +1
6-
Fellerova věž
Center of the valley wall briefly frictioning and via a corner to the gully of Kirchhoff… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Fellerova věž
2.5m right of Ginzel's route via a corner and right (bolt), directly up the wall and like… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Fellerova věž
From the west along the ridge to a ledge and over smooth steps to a large ledge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Fellerova věž
2m left of Šachtová Wall via a crack (crossing the Šachtová Wall traverse) to a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Fellerova věž
Left in the south wall via a corner to a prominent overhang, 2m right and via a crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route

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