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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

2
Věžička naděje
From the highest point in the upper wall, go left to an overgrown ledge and traverse… Rock Climbing
3
Trávnická věžička
On the right in the NE face, directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Trávnická věžička
From the north, up the wall over the overhang to the gully and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Trávnická věžička
In the middle of the NE face, up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Trávnická věžička
About 2m to the right of the 'Old Route', directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Trávnická věžička
From the start of the NE crack, ramp left, then up a short gully and the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Trávnická věžička
Up the chimney from the southwest to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Trávnická věžička
Via the southern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Trávnická věžička
From the west, up the wall over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Trávnická věžička
On the left in the SW face, up the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Tři muflončata
Via the upper (W) edge to the main summit. Rock Climbing
2
Tři muflončata
Between the first (western) and second (middle) towers, climb the chimney, then slightly… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Malá Hruška
In the middle of the south face to a ring. Then to a ledge (slings) and straight to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Malá Hruška
In the middle of the east face, climb the wall and a chimney on the ledge, then up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Malá Hruška
Right in the NW face up the wall and W edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Malá Hruška
Left in the NW face by crack to the ledge, up the wall briefly, left onto the edge and on… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Malá Hruška
Right in the NW (valley) face by crack into the saddle between Hruška and Malá Hruška and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Malá Hruška
From the ring left over the overhang (ring), along the edge and up the steps to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Malá Hruška
In the middle of the NW face by crack and wall to the large overhang (ring), right by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Malá Hruška
From the S over boulders into the saddle between Hruška and Malá Hruška and up the middle… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Malá Hruška
From the saddle up the wall slightly right on friction to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Šachtová věž - východní
Left of the SE edge and along the ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Šachtová věž - východní
Left of Pepkova's route, an overthrow from the block and left to the edge, along it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Šachtová věž - východní
From the boulder at the NE face, a step-over and right onto the friction to the ring. By… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Šachtová věž - východní
From the ring, variants directly along the edge, from the ring of the original route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Šachtová věž - východní
From the plateau side of Hruška upwards and by crack to the end (K), then right along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Šachtová věž - východní
As the First route to the ramp, through a short corner to the overhang and left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Šachtová věž - východní
To the right in the NW face through a corner (dBh) to the overhang, over it by hand crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Šachtová věž - východní
Along the edge (ring), from the left over the overhang and to the right onto the edge. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Šachtová věž - východní
To the right in the NW wall, a corner crack to the saddle. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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