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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

2+
Horní liščí kámen
4-
Dolní liščí kámen
Right in the sudden wall with a crack and fissure to the shoulder. St. c. n. v.
3
Dolní liščí kámen
On the right in the valley side to the ledge, traverse to the left to the chimney.
7+/8-
Dolní liščí kámen
Far left on the downslope side over the overhang (1st K) and wall over 2nd K to 3rd K. St… Fixed belay
4-
Dolní liščí kámen
Valley chimney over the piton to the top Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Havraní hnízdo
Along the right overhanging edge to the end, then to the left to the bolt hanger. Onto… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Havraní hnízdo
About three meters to the left of "Staník's Route" by a fine crack to the balcony and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Havraní hnízdo
From the 1st bolt hanger c. "Flight over the Raven's Nest" through the roof to the left … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Havraní hnízdo
By the right edge of the large roof through a prominent hole (2 bolt hangers) to a ledge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Havraní hnízdo
From the 3rd bolt hanger to the right along the edge and a small wall (4th bolt hanger),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Havraní hnízdo
In the left part of the large overhang over 3 bolt hangers into the wall (4th bolt hanger… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Havraní hnízdo
In the center of the wall by a winding crack to the right to a ledge, then to the left to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Havraní hnízdo
Same as "Right Tatranská" up to the cave. Then drop to the left edge of the left wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Havraní hnízdo
To the left by a large fissure up to the cave, from there by the left overhanging crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Havraní hnízdo
To the right by a large fissure up to the cave, from there by the right overhanging crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Havraní hnízdo
Start 3m to the left of "The 10,000 Route" to the edge and along it to the top. (5 bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Havraní hnízdo
Directly along the edge to the top. In half an hour. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Malý havran
To the right of the Old Route, along the NW edge to the summit. (bolt added in the summit… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Malý havran
Over an overhang and a crack in the center of the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Malý havran
From the right, over an overhang to the SW edge and along it to the summit. (two bolts… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Havraní hnízdo
From the uphill side along the edge, through the bolt hanger to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4
Malý havran
Along the crack and up the wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Havraní hnízdo
From the plateau side, up the small wall along the corner, over a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Malý havran
Through the center of the South wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Malý havran
In the right part of the South (plateau) wall, over 2 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Malý havran
From the boulder at the edge, over an overhanging small wall and a crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Malý havran
In the left part of the East wall, over 2 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Malý havran
Over an overhanging wall right of the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Malý havran
Over an overhang to the right of the SW edge, over 2 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Malý havran
Right of the edge to the chipped block and over it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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