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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

1
Malý havran
From the saddle between the towers, wall to the right. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Malý havran
Jump from the Havran platform to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Malý havran
Corner under the roof, across it from the left and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Boulder block
3m to the left from the SE edge, up the overhanging wall, then straight up to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Boulder block
SE edge n. t. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Boulder block
Through the center of the S wall directly to the sl. BH Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Boulder block
2m to the left from the SE edge, straight up the wall n. t. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Boulder block
1m to the right from the SW edge directly n. t. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Boulder block
Close to the left of the SE edge (2BH) to the sl. BH Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Boulder block
3m to the right from the SE edge through the wall n. t. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Boulder block
1m left from the SE edge through a crack and the wall to the sl. BH Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7-
Matoušova skála
Through the center of the wall over 2 bh, slightly to the left to the 3rd bh and to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5-
Matoušova skála
Through a wide crack in the corner over 3 bh and slightly to the right to the chain. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8-
Matoušova skála
From the 2nd bh of Šimpanzodromiáda directly upwards over the 3rd bh to the chain. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Matoušova skála
Through the right part of the wall over 2 bh to the chain. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8-
Matoušova skála
Start on the Hornopasecká Promenáda route to the 3rd bh, from there over the last bolts… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Matoušova skála
Start NC up to the 3rd bh. From there slightly from the right upwards over the 4th bh to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
9
Matoušova skála
From the 2nd bh of "Hornopasecká promenáda" slightly to the left and straight to the 3rd… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7-
Matoušova skála
Along the edge of the corner to the wall book over the 1st bh, then straight and through… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Matoušova skála
Through the wall along the edge directly over 2 bh to the book. Then follow the Renata… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
10-
Matoušova skála
Through the wall to the bh, from the right along the ledges to the 2nd bh of Hornopasecká… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7+
Matoušova skála
From the L edge of the S wall diagonally to the right to the 3rd bh, overhanging and wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7+
Matoušova skála
Along the right edge of the west wall over 4 bh to the chain. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Matoušova skála
From the terrace, through the left part of the W wall over 2 bh to the chain. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
9
Matoušova skála
On the right side of the SW edge, directly over 3 bh to the chain. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Matoušova skála
From the terrace, through the center of the wall over 2 bh to the chain. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
9-
Matoušova skála
From the L edge, slightly right through the wall over 4 bh to the chain. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
3
Věžička naděje
To the right of the 'Old Route', directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Věžička naděje
From the SE, up the overhanging face to a ledge and via 'St. c.' to the summit.
2+
Věžička naděje
From the start of the 'Old Route' directly up the sloping wall to the summit. Rock Climbing

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