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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

4
Nebeská věž
German climbers' route W-SE (with aid) over the overhang, then left along the edge … Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Lužický středohor
To the right of the West edge up the wall, higher up over the smooth bulge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Odsunutá věž
Via the valley chimney and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Odsunutá věž
Left of the route "Valley Chimney" directly up the wall via a bolt (BH) to the pillar and… Rock Climbing
2+
Odsunutá věž
From the chimney passage over cut steps to the pillar and then optionally to the summit. … Rock Climbing
4+
Odsunutá věž
Through the valley corner between the tower and the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Odsunutá věž
To the right of the "Displaced Tower" via the massif wall over 2 bolt hangers to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Odsunutá věž
From a narrow corridor on the uphill side via a slab wall (cut steps below) to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Odsunutá věž
To the left of the route "Unnecessary Sacrifice" via the wall directly to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Spolčení hlupců
From below directly to K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Spolčení hlupců
From the right upper edge, traverse right to the ring (added) and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Spolčení hlupců
In the left part of the N face to the ring and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Švédská trojka
In the middle of the massif, via a falcon-like slanting crack to the body/massif. Rock Climbing
5+
Spolčení hlupců
In the right part of the NW face, over a ferruginous ledge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Spolčení hlupců
To the right of the W edge, via the wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Švédská trojka
In the right part of the valley wall, via a corner crack to the body/massif. Rock Climbing
7-
Malý Tolštejn
From the ledge in the SE wall, to the right over an overhang, higher up the wall along a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
6-
Malý Tolštejn
From the ledge in the SE wall, in the middle via an overhanging wall slightly diagonally… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
3+
Malý Tolštejn
From the ledge in the SE wall, to the left via the wall and directly to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
3
Tolštejn
Through the middle of the valley wall (BH) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Švédská trojka
In the middle of the valley wall, a prominent overhanging edge to the last holds and a… Rock Climbing
5+
Malý Tolštejn
Through the middle of the front NE wall directly by friction climbing and further to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5-
Malý Tolštejn
To the left on the SE side, via an overhanging wall to a ledge and along the S edge to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4+
Malý Tolštejn
To the right on the SE side, via the wall over an overhang and the wall to an obliquely… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
6
Malý Tolštejn
To the right of the "Tolštejnská cesta" (Tolštejn Way) via an overhanging and broken wall… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
3-
Malý Tolštejn
Completely to the left in the SE wall into a laid-back chimney and through it to a ledge.… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
2
Malý Tolštejn
From the NE wall from the right to the ridge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
1
Malý Tolštejn
From the SW over steps, a short crack, and the ridge (normal route). Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
2
Malý Tolštejn
To the left in the NW face, via an overhanging wall into the gully and along it to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
2
Stožecký hrot
To the right in the plateau, directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing

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