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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

5
Kavčí skála
To the right of the Old Road along the crack to the fore-rock, traverse left behind the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kavčí skála
Up the overhanging broken double crack in the left part of the west face to the northern… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Kavčí skála
Up the chimney in the left part of the east face under the overhang. Right onto the ledge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kavčí skála
Up the pillar of the south face via the ring of the South Face to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kavčí skála
From the ring of the South Face diagonally right to the edge (hour-glass) and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kavčí skála
Up the left east crack to the pillar in the south face (ring on the left ledge). Directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Kavčí skála
Via a wide crumbly crack in the right part of the east face, over a step into a niche … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Kavčí skála
From the niche of the Old Route, left to a small ledge and up the wall over a ring (fixed… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kavčí skála
To the left of the Old Road up the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Borový hrot (Štětináč)
Up the SE face over a ring (fixed point). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Borový hrot (Štětináč)
Between Štěničník and Štětináč by stemming and finally by wedging to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Borový plátek (Štěničník)
From the gorge between Pine Point and Pine Slab, via a mossy wall to the ridge and along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Švarcvaldská brána
The ridge of the Švarcvald Gate continues with lower overgrown massifs. These are broken… Rock Climbing
4-
Švarcvaldská brána
From the start of the SE ROUTE, up the pillar to the right, over hourglass (fixed point).
2
Borový plátek (Štěničník)
To the right in the N face, via an overgrown gully diagonally left upwards (fixed point). Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Borový hrot (Štětináč)
In the valley face to a small rib and left by friction (fixed point). Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Borový plátek (Štěničník)
Three meters to the right of the Old Route to the ridge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Švarcvaldská brána
Via the wall, five meters to the right of Dog's Path. Rock Climbing
5+
Švarcvaldská brána
4 m to the right of the northern edge. Via the wall and a shallow crack past the ring … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Švarcvaldská brána
Through an indentation in the southeast face to a chimney and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Švarcvaldská brána
Three meters left of the Northwest Chimney, via the wall and hand crack. Rock Climbing
3
Švarcvaldská brána
From the start of the Bad Route, traverse diagonally left into the gully of Dog's Path… Rock Climbing
3
Švarcvaldská brána
Via a vertical overhanging wall three meters to the right of the Southeast Route … Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Švarcvaldská brána
Just to the right of the East Ridge (ring) to a small balcony, and from there via an easy… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Švarcvaldská brána
From the west, up the wall to a separate pillar, jumping onto the ridge of the tower and… Rock Climbing
4-
Švarcvaldská brána
In the north face, hand-traverse above the opening of the rock arch from left to right… Rock Climbing
3
Švarcvaldská brána
In the northwest face, a short indentation into the chimney. Through it to the summit.… Rock Climbing
5
Široký kámen
Up the east face to a prominent crack and through it over four rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Strážce stolové hory
From the valley side via a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Široký kámen
To the left of the route "Ještědské panorama" via a crack over 2 rings to the ledge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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