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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

6-
Cukrová homole
Through a small dihedral in the valley wall to the 1st K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Mexickej kulčík
In the right part, up the wall through the holes, via the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Cukrová homole
Fixed belay Danger
7
Nálevna
Via the crack, approx. Mukařovská feint to the end and left over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Nálevna
Up the wall over the ring to the flake (belay) and via the route "Don't hesitate and turn… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Nálevna
Up the wall and right over the edge into the crack, through it and with a high step to… Rock Climbing
4
Nálevna
At the left valley edge, by stemming into the crack and up it to the ledge, by the pine… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Výří kraj
Up the wall over the ring into the gully and thereby (loop) to the summit to the pine… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Výří kraj
Through the groove and diagonally left to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Výří kraj
Up the wall to the ring, diagonally left to the 'hours' (pitons/rings) and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Výří kraj
From the NE edge via a slanted notch to the summit. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Výří kraj
Up the wall and through the dihedral to the ring and upwards to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Cesťák
Through the crack over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Výří kraj
Through the corner over the ring to the 2nd ring, right to the ring in the heather and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Výří kraj
Up the wall along the small holds diagonally left to the ledge (ring) and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Cesťák
Up a slanted crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Prubířský kámen
Through the crack over the roof into the chimney and thereby to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Výří kraj
Up a wide zigzagging crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Cesťák
Directly on the edge over 1 bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Hadí hřbet
From the chimney along the ledge to the edge (bolt) and along the edge to the summit. Fixed belay
2
Hadí hřbet
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif.
9
Zahrada (Špekova zahrada)
Right of the boulder, up the wall to K, left into the crack and through it (2nd K) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9
Zahrada (Špekova zahrada)
From the boulder, via a fissure to K, traverse left into the crack and through it (2nd K)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Zahrada (Špekova zahrada)
Up the wall over the ring directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Zahrada (Špekova zahrada)
Up the wall to the ring and via a system of cracks (2nd ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Zahrada (Špekova zahrada)
Rock Climbing
7-/7
Zahrada (Špekova zahrada)
Up the wall directly to the ring, via the ledge to the right (2nd ring) and to the shelf… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Zahrada (Špekova zahrada)
From the platform, up the wall over 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Zahrada (Špekova zahrada)
Up the wall over K into the crack and through it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Večerníček
Left part of the wall along the cut/notch to the ring and directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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