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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

6+
Mezihřeben
In the left part of the slab, directly behind the chimney, over two rivets, possibility… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Mezihřeben
Up the middle of the slab via two bolts. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Mezihřeben
Route in the side wall over two rivets Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Mezihřeben
Route on own protection along the NE edge n. t. Rock Climbing
4+
Mezihřeben
Completely to the right in the slab and onto the pillar on own protection Rock Climbing
6
Mezihřeben
Route via three bolts in the left part of the final wall (on the W edge of Mezihřeben). Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+
Mezihřeben
Start with a more prominent crack in the right part of the wall, possibility for… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Mezihřeben
Route through a prominent crack with own protection. Rock Climbing
6+
Mezihřeben
Route up the middle of the wall via two bolts, possibility for additional protection. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Mezihřeben
Up the middle of the W wall over the overhang (3BH) to the top. Fixed belay
8-
Mezihřeben
To the right of the route "Something for Pensioners", via an overhang and along the edge… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Overhang
2
Signalkuppe
Through the crack in the S wall to the summit Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
7-
Mezihřeben
To the left of Jožinová, via an overhang and a small wall to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Overhang
5
Mezihřeben
Start in the middle of the W wall to the first bolt of "Eternal Glory", then traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Lyskamm
Up the middle of the S wall via a bolt to a ledge and from there via the 2nd bolt to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Lyskamm
2 m to the right of the Overhanging Route, up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Friends +2
5+
Monte Rosa
From the south easily under the overhang. Through the overhanging crack running left over… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
2
Breithorn
From the saddle below Matterhorn, up the grassy slope to the eastern face and freely… Rock Climbing
4
Předskalí Malého Matterhornu
From the exit of the chimney, 5m left of the edge at the recess, possibility of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Předskalí Malého Matterhornu
Start like Overhanging Crack and from there diagonally right over the dBh (double bolt)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+
Předskalí Malého Matterhornu
In the E wall, from the rock on the left, over the 1st bolt (bh) up the wall below the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Malý Matterhorn
From the chimney between Little Matterhorn and its fore-peak, up the overhanging W wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
5
Malý Matterhorn
From the road, up the crack to the flake and then up the slab (piton) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Malý Matterhorn
Up the overhanging corner to the jammed boulder, then chimney up to the edge and along… Rock Climbing
2
Malý Matterhorn
Along the ridge from the west, from the saddle between Matterhorn and Breithorn. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Malý Matterhorn
Start below the 1st bolt (BH), slightly left to the 2nd rivet in the slab, over a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+
Malý Matterhorn
Take the Children's Route to the bolt (BH), traverse left to the 2nd bolt (BH) of the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
4
Malý Matterhorn
4m right of the route "W wall below rappel point" via a fault to a bolt (Bh) and from… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay
6
Dánský kámen
Up the overhanging small wall along the small crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Žulík
Along the right edge of the valley wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1

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