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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

2
Kozí skála
In the right part of the S wall over the fore-summit directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Kamenná vrata
Start approx. 1-2m to the right of the rock passage into the first overhang. Climb onto a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5
Červené skály
from the start of Prstovka, traverse diagonally left along a smooth wall into the Red… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
4
Červené skály
along the wall to the left of the Prstovka route Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
5
Krejčík
To the right of the "North Wall" along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
3
Červené skály
To the right of the route Right Edge of the Sun Wall. Through the middle of the small… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
3
Krejčík
From the NE corner along the ledge left into the E wall and up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
4
Pudl
From W, over the fore-rock, possibility of protection with a friend, to the bolt and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Pudl
From W, over the fore-rock, possibility of protection with a friend, to the bolt and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Pudl
Overhanging wall along the right edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Pudl
From W, in the middle of the slab 2 m from the S edge, directly to the bolt and over it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Pudl
From the SE corner diagonally right into a short crack and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Pudl
To the right of the BROKEN CHIMNEY route, through a notch past 2BH to the summit. Fixed belay
3
Pudl
Through the chimney in the right part of the E wall. Rock Climbing
4
Pudl
Smooth N wall along the left edge, or through the middle to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Pudl
From SE, in the middle of the wall, across a crack to the first bolt. From there directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Pudl
From Normal route left to the N wall and traverse to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Pudl
From the W with a short chimney. Rock Climbing
3+
Mezihřeben
In the left part of the E wall over two rivets Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Mezihřeben
From the corner over two rivets. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3+
Mezihřeben
Through the depression on own protection Rock Climbing
6+
Mezihřeben
From the left over the overhang through the slab over three rivets Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Mezihřeben
From the right over the overhang slightly to the right over three rivets Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Mezihřeben
Through the corner on own protection to the ridge. Rock Climbing
4+
Mezihřeben
In the right part of the slab - shared protection with the route 'Blueberry Indians'. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Mezihřeben
To the right of the overhang through the slab and corner to the ridge Rock Climbing
6+
Mezihřeben
Along the NW edge over 2BH n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Mezihřeben
Through the middle of the slab over two rivets to the ridge Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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