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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

5+
Sokolík
Left valley edge over the ledge further to the pre-summit. As the Překrok (Step Over)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Sokolík
Via the Old Route (also possible 2m to the right of the start of the Old Route) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Sokolík
To the right of Maslá Evropa, up the wall (SK) to a ledge, then up the wall and a fine… Fixed belay
5+
Sokolík
From N up the wall directly (K) to the 2nd K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Sokolík
On the W side, to the left of the path, up the wall and crack (ring) to a ledge. To the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Sokolík
Directly along the S edge, then over the rock pinnacles to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Sokolík
To the left of the Old Route up the wall to the ring. Diagonally right over the overhang … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Sokolík
From the start of the Little Europe route directly up the wall via the ring to the 2nd… Rock Climbing
5
Sokolík
From the east up the wall to the piton and further n. v. Fixed belay
4-
Sokolík
From the ring of the East Wall route, diagonally left via the Falcon's Notch to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Sokolík
Along the SE edge (partially up the wall to the left of the edge) to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Sokolík
From E via the stepped wall to the saddle and right through the W corner to the S summit. Rock Climbing
4
Mečoun
Right part of the sharp edge along the crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mečoun
Left part of the sharp edge along the hand crack n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Sokolík
From the S edge along the ledges to the left and up the wall to the corner of the Old… Rock Climbing
6
Kozel
In the middle of the wall via the corner and small pillar to the bolt, from there to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Kozina
Via the edge over the bolt (Bh) into the ledge and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kozel
Via the crack to the right of the edge onto the edge, then slightly to the right to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
8
Koza
Up the wall and along the edge over the bolt (Bh) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Žralok
Via the right edge to the step, over the holes to the right into the slab and via that to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Žralok
Up the wall somewhat to the left and over the iron spikes to the crack of route "Hřbítkem… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Žralok
Through the left part of the wall over the ring to the ledge and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Žralok
From the right via the iron vein to the ring and from there directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Žralok
Over the overhang (prev.) to the small crack, via that to the ledge. Via the right crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Skalsko
Via the corner under the overhang and over it (bolt) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Skalsko
Via the corner to the right of the route "Pohorní příprava" (Mountain Preparation) under… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Skalsko
Over the giant roof via the bolt (Bh) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Skalsko
Left of the right valley edge, via the crack to the ledge, left and over the overhang via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Skalsko
From the ledge up the overhanging wall to the right of the edge and at the top via that… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Skalsko
Through the middle of the large overhang via the bolt (Bh) into the crack and via that… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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