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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

6
Hruška
From the ring directly by crack. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hruška
At the right valley edge onto the block, along the edge and up the wall (3 rings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Hruška
From the traverse directly over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hruška
In the middle of the NW face by crack (ring) to the 2nd ring, traverse right into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Hruška
From the right of the W edge into a corner and up the corner crack over the overhang … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Hruška
Left of the S edge from the boulder onto a small ledge (point) and up the wall … Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Šachtová věž - západní
In the corner, via crack and chimney. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Krkavčí hnízdo
Middle of the north face (iron plates) to the ledge. Right over the overhang to the next… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Krkavčí hnízdo
From below between Raven's Nest and Raven's Wall. Exclusively along the right side of the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2
Krkavčí hnízdo
From the south, a rugged wall to the shelf. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Krkavčí hnízdo
Left in the north face along iron plates to the ring and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Krkavčí hnízdo
On the right edge of the west face, through the corner into a cave, from there through a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Krkavčí hnízdo
Short western edge to the southern turret. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Fellerova věž
From the start directly up the overhanging crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Fellerova věž
5m right of Ginzel's route via a corner and right via a crack into a chimney with wedged… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Fellerova věž
From the small ledge (block) directly to a large ledge. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Fellerova věž
From the start of Kirchhoff's Chimney, follow a winding, in places overhanging crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Krkavec
Right of St. c. through cracks to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Krkavec
In the middle of the valley wall along a crack sloping left and to the right along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Krkavec
3m to the right of Modřínová (Larch Route) up the wall and along a crack sloping right to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Krkavec
Center of the NE overhanging wall via Bh into the crack and along the ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Krkavec
3m to the right of the Oblique Crack along a crack sloping left to a protrusion, 4m left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Krkavec
Far left in the valley wall over a large overhang and up a rib to the ring. Left along a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Krkavec
To the left of the start of the Old Route up the wall and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Krkavec
5m to the left of Pravá jižní (Right South) along the overhanging crack to a ledge and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Krkavec
To the left in the south face up the wall to the shoulder and to the SW edge. Right along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Krkavec
To the right in the valley wall 3m up to a crack sloping left, along it and later to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Krkavec
To the right in the south face, along the rib sloping left to its end and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Sokolík
In the north face of the pre-summit (1 piton). Fixed belay
4-
Sokolík
2m to the right of the Old Route via a step to the saddle. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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