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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

4-
Hlavní věž
Recess to the right of the pillar and through the center of the wall to the ridge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Hlavní věž
Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Hlavní věž
Smooth wall to a stepped pillar, higher up through an overhanging chimney to the ridge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Hlavní věž
In the fall line of the SW edge, higher up near the edge straight to the ridge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Hlavní věž
Downclimb to a ledge (birch tree), left and smooth steep heave to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Hlavní věž
Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Hlavní věž
Through the corner from the south, higher up the ridge to the main peak. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
7/7+
Hlavní věž
From the cave, over the overhang along the corner, past 2 bolts and from the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Hlavní věž
Across the ledge to a bolt, then overhanging wall along the crack to a balcony, chimney… Fixed belay
7/7+
Hlavní věž
Overhanging wall along the crack, past 2 bolts to easy terrain and freely n. v. Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +5
5
Dolní blok
Center of the east wall, straight up the overhanging wall n. t. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Matoušova skála
Through the wall of the right pillar over holes (2bh) to the ring. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Matoušova skála
Along the right edge through the wall into a corner (3bh) and to the chain. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6+
Matoušova skála
Through the wall (without steps to NC) to the 1st bh, overhanging over 2 bh and slightly… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6+
Matoušova skála
Start on the Freddie Mercury route to the 3rd bh. From there upwards, directly over bh to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7
Severní pilíř
In the left part of the S wall directly to BH and diagonally left dBH. Up over the shelf… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
7-
Severní pilíř
In the middle of the north face, via a prominent open corner diagonally right over the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
6+
Severní pilíř
In the middle of the north face, via a subtle indentation to a bolt, left up the wall to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
3
Křížová věž
Up the edge to the right of the 'NC' to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Křížová věž
Climb the normal route a few meters and from the ledge go left to the corner on the north… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Křížová věž
In the middle of the valley SE face, over the 1st key point below the overhang, through… Rock Climbing
6-
Křížová věž
Up the southwest face along the crack to a ring. Left to the ring of the 'Pokoutná cesta'… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Křížová věž
To the right of the western edge (belay station) to a ring, right and up the notch to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Křížová věž
Via the northern edge over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Křížová věž
From the NW, up the stepped wall (artificial steps) to the cross. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Hruška
Up the blunt E edge (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Hruška
Up the S edge to the small ledge of the old route and left to the ring. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Hruška
In the middle of the SE face up the wall and gully (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Hruška
From the saddle between Hruška and Malá Hruška, right up the wall (ring) to the 2nd ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Hruška
Via Čihula's route 3 m up, left by crack to a small ledge and along the edge to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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