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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

5
Havranpírko
Start by the right corner in the central part of the massif 1st bolt hanger, then by a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Havranpírko
Start in the middle between the corners in the central part of the massif over the 1st… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
2+
Havranpírko
Start in the left part of the massif on a slanting edge and along it over two bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Havranpírko
Start in the right part of the massif from a prominent ledge and by a blunt edge over two… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Havranpírko
Start by the left corner in the central part of the massif (own protection) to a ledge to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Havraní hnízdo
About 2m to the left of the right edge directly to the 1st bolt hanger. Then to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Havraní hnízdo
By a crack in the center of the wall directly to the 1st bolt hanger. Over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Hlavní věž
In the fall line of the SE edge, through the center of the smooth wall to a step below… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Hlavní věž
Corner to the right of the castle wall, higher up a slab to the ridge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Břidličný vrch
Also sometimes called Kytlice
3
Hlavní věž
To the right of the SE edge by a crack, higher up through a recess (piton) and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Hlavní věž
From the start of the Klikatá route, overhanging corner (2 pitons) to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Hlavní věž
From the overhanging corner above the boulder, traverse left into the winding crack,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hlavní věž
Through a narrow crack in the middle of the smooth overhanging wall (pitons) to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Hlavní věž
Like Eastern Corner and about halfway up the wall traverse diagonally right across the NE… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hlavní věž
To the right of the Novoborská route, across the breach diagonally right into the recess … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Hlavní věž
(Built) in the passage of the cave to the edge of the ramp, overhanging corner or from… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Hlavní věž
To the right of the passage, position yourself in the corner and climb it to the ridge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hlavní věž
From the boulder under the largest overhang directly upwards, then left to the rusty… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Hlavní věž
From the south right above the slab to the cracks in the SE wall. Up the crack above the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hlavní věž
In the fall line of the left NE edge to the overhanging crack, up it (4 pitons) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Hlavní věž
Into the recess from the left via a diagonal crack over a wedged stone (sling). Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Hlavní věž
About 6 m to the right of the passage in the overhanging corner traverse diagonally left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Hlavní věž
Ascending wall and recess to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Hlavní věž
Above the cave to another small cave and along the shallow corner (3 pitons) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Hlavní věž
From the cave up the smooth slab, traverse left to the center of the north wall (piton)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hlavní věž
On the right in the north wall via chimney climb (belay) and wall to the edge, then n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Hlavní věž
Slab near the NW edge to the north peak. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Hlavní věž
Crack and smooth corner below the north peak, along the ridge to the main peak. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Hlavní věž
Recess to the right of the pillar and through the center of the wall to the ridge. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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