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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

7+
Pravý masív
Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+
Pravý masív
Start as with the route 'Jarní zážeh', with which it shares the first belay, then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7
Pravý masív
Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-
Pravý masív
At the right edge, slab and over the step to sl. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4
Havran
From the Little Raven traverse and left through the corner crack. Rock Climbing
5+
Havran
On the left in the Eastern wall along the edge to the pre-rock and through the middle of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Havran
On the left in the Eastern wall through the yellow notch under the roof (1st Bh). Up to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Havran
Overhanging corner with kyzy 3m above the wedged boulder and diagonally to the right onto… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Havran
On the left in the Eastern wall to the pre-rock and over the edge over 2BH to the ledge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Havran
Overhanging corner to the wedged boulder, overgrown wall to the ledge in "N. c." and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Havran
Via pillar over 2 bolts n. v. (from the 2nd Bh you can continue as "Eastern left / middle… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Havran
Through the corner above the overhang and to the right to the ring. Wall and crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Havran
In the east wall, small chimneys under the prominent overhanging corner (sling) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Havran
In the east wall, to the left of the overhanging corner over 3 Bh to the "Delegates from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Havran
In the right part of the east wall, through the corner to the 1st bh, overhanging chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Havran
Through the gap to the balcony in the valley wall to the start. Through the center of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Havran
From the balcony, abseil to the stand of the Valley Corner route, or directly from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Havran
From the right part of the balcony through the small corner and further along the edge (2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Havran
From the ledge in the East wall at the left edge. (3 Bh) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Havran
Through the gap and chimney to the terrace in the valley wall below the start. Finger… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Havran
Left valley edge (3 bh). Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Havran
Slab to a small hole and to the right to the ring. Crack under the overhang, traverse to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Havran
From the start of the Heavenly Path directly across 3 rings into its traverse, and then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Havran
Through the corner to the ring under the overhang. (Building) into the corner, through it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8-/8
Havran
Direct start (1st Bh) into the Heavenly Path. Through the ring (and possibly slings) all… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Havran
Smooth valley wall (4 Bh) directly across the ceiling in its widest part (5th Bh) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Havran
Via Hard Rock route under the ceiling, traverse under the ceiling to the left and through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Havran
Against the wall at a blunt edge (2k) to the 3rd ring. Across the ceiling to the notch … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Havran
Over an overhang in the valley wall to the bolt hanger and to the right along the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Havran
From the ring to the left up to the nest, traverse behind the edge and Nebeskou c. to the… Rock Climbing

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