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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

4+/5-
Borská skalka
To the right of the NE edge (near the fireplace), a slightly inclined wall to the belay… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
9-
Borská skalka
Right overhanging edge of the wall near the fireplace - to the left of it. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4-
Modrý kámen
4
Malá Kulička
From the east, crack and left wall and then blunt edge of the route "Czech Hedgehog" n. v. Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall +1
6-
Poutník
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Poutník
By the downhill wall (circle) n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Malá Kulička
Start like Spárka, right over the edge into the wall and then slightly right to the top. Route on sun Laid wall
5
Poutník
Through the middle of the wall into a smooth gully and to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Malá Kulička
Left over the edge into the right part of the downhill wall and up to the top. Laid wall
5
Trojzubec
Left overhanging crack into the widening and left along the edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Poutník
Highland wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Trojzubec
Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Trojzubec
Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Trojzubec
Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Trojzubec
Up the wall through a large hole to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Trojzubec
over circle Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Trojzubec
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Trojzubec
Through the recess to the western peak. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Trojzubec
From the south through the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Levý masív
Rock Climbing
3
Trojzubec
To the left of St. c. wall to a shelf. Then left upwards to a large balcony. Traverse… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Levý masív
Rock Climbing
9-
Levý masív
Rock Climbing
7
Levý masív
Rock Climbing
7
Pravý masív
Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-
Pravý masív
Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+
Pravý masív
Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Pravý masív
Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+
Pravý masív
Start as with the route 'Jarní zážeh', with which it shares the first belay, then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7
Pravý masív
Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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