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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

3
Hladká
From the W edge, slab to the left to the piton, to the left over the edge and slab. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Kamínek
In the right part of the windward face to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Hladká
Overgrown wall along steps diagonally to the left to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Hladká
In the left part of the windward side, overhang directly over BH and to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
1
Hladká
Freely to the top via the left part of the windward side. Rock Climbing
5
Hladká
Along the right lower edge under the overhang (BH) and over it to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
1
Hladká
In the right part of the windward side along the notch and over steps. Rock Climbing
6
Homole
To the right of the niche, through the wall over the ledge to the summit Rock Climbing
5
Homole
Through the middle of the lower wall to the crack and then to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Homole
To the left of the Left Lower Route into the niche and directly through it (BH) over the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
2
Homole
Rock Climbing
2
Homole
Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Homole
From the north diagonally to the right over a piton to the crack and then to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Homole
Directly to the piton via a blunt edge and slab. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Borská skalka
Through a recess and a slightly sloping wall over several swings to the top (rope). 3rd… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Borská skalka
In the lower wall, 2nd route from the right. Straight to the top over 8 BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4
Borská skalka
Lower wall: Completely to the right on the S edge via a sloping wall and along it to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
1
Homole
From the highest point of the windward side to the left and over steps to the top.
8-
Borská skalka
In the W wall by the Mongol party route under the roof and traverse left through the roof… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+
Borská skalka
To the left of the left downhill edge over m. overhang and from the right edge, over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+/6-
Borská skalka
Downhill wall, 2nd route from the left. Handle-y over the overhang and delicate corner…
5+/6-
Borská skalka
Lower wall, 3rd route from the left
6+
Borská skalka
In the W wall on the right edge of the overhang n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Borská skalka
W wall on the left along the edge of the roof. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Borská skalka
In the left part, a small wall under the roof and diagonally left across it to the Cesta… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+
Borská skalka
In the W wall to the right of the center of the roof, over it and to the top Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8-
Borská skalka
In the W wall a little to the left of the center of the roof and straight across it to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
?
Borská skalka
The leftmost route in the W wall to the left of the overhang. Through a flat depression… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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