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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

4+
Srpnová věž
Via the route "Stržová stěna" to the overhang, traverse left to the route "Pivní stěnka"… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Srpnová věž
Through the center of the wall of Šárta, through a crack and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Srpnová věž
Right uphill edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Modřínová věžička
From the lowest point of the downhill side directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
5
Modřínová věžička
From the bolt directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2+
Orlík
From the scree, left (SE) edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Orlík
Downhill wall directly to BH and obliquely left over the balcony n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Orlík
Through the center of the uphill wall and to the left, SE edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Beckertův kámen
In the north upper face over cut steps directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Beckertův kámen
From the NE between the massif and the base rock upwards. From the base rock a step over… Rock Climbing
2+
Beckertův kámen
From the north into a chimney and directly to the summit. Note: German climbers before… Rock Climbing
5+
Ztracený vodník
To the right of the start of the route "Brajgl" by the edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
2
Bundesmannova útulna
From the scree onto a ledge, along it to the left and over cut steps, n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Sklepní věž
From M in the west. Rock Climbing
3
Sklepní věž
From the south side of the massif, up the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Sklepní věž
Up the northeast edge halfway, then slightly to the right. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Sklepní věž
To the right of the Old Route, up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Sklepní věž
Up the crack in the north face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Sklepní věž
From the western saddle, up the overhanging crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Sklepní věž
From the saddle to the right and up the southwest edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Sklepní věž
Up the chimney between the tower and the massif, then up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Opice
Diagonally right across K on the east face to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Opice
Along the north face directly to BH and from the right. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Opice
Directly up the northeast face. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Opice
On the left in the windward wall, chimney into the hole and recess to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kamínek
In the left part of the windward face over a chopped step to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Opice
Through the center of the valley's west face, passing BH to a chimney and up it. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Opice
From the massif with a step-over and artificial steps to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Kamínek
In the right part of the windward face to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Hladká
Edge, sloping edge to the top. Rock Climbing

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