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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

2+
Hrádek
From the North, ascend the crack and chimney.
2+
Hrádek
In the SW face, follow a shallow corner directly to the chimney.
2
Hrádek
From the uphill side, traverse left on a ledge to the NW side and up the chimney.
4+
Hrádek
On the right side of the downhill face, ascend the chimney and crack to the summit. Fixed belay
3
Přeskoková
Up the right uphill edge to a small overhang and to the right via a shallow corner to the…
5+
Přeskoková
To the left in the downhill wall, up a crack in the corner to the overhang (sling). Over… Fixed belay
3
Přeskoková
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif directly to the summit.
2
Přeskoková
From M, descend briefly and a jump to the summit.
4+
Přeskoková
Through the center of the SE face to the summit.
2+
Osamělý rytíř
Through the center of the lower wall easily over the terraces to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Samotář
From the upper edge, diagonally right up the sloping wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Samotář
From the east, over the overhang and climb the wall past the ring directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Samotář
Climb the wall in the east to the ring and then with an overhanging pull-up to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6
Samotář
Slightly from the left along the northern edge to the summit Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Luční věž
From the upper side, climb a short wall to the foreground rock, step over and use… Rock Climbing
5
Malý rytíř
From the highest point of the plateau, build vigorously to the ring, to the right and as … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Malý rytíř
From the upper side, go right upwards to the balcony (K). Along the sharp edge and with… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Julinka
From the overhang from the east and a short wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Julinka
From the upland gorge to the northern edge and slightly to the right of it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Džbán (Molkenkrug, Krhanice)
Fixed belay
4-
Julie
Through the center of the upland wall to the ledge, left along the edge upwards.
6+/7-
Džbán (Molkenkrug, Krhanice)
Fixed belay
5
Julie
2m to the right of St. c. up the wall upwards. Rock Climbing
5
Džbán (Molkenkrug, Krhanice)
Behind S at the left edge to the balcony and up the NE edge to the summit (artificial… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Srpnová věž
In the downhill face, overhang to the 1st BH. Diagonally left over the 2nd BH and the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Srpnová věž
From the outcrop (NE) over the cascade, building and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Srpnová věž
Through the center of the SW face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Srpnová věž
Left uphill edge over BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Srpnová věž
2.5 m left of the route "Stržová stěna", building to the left up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Srpnová věž
On the downhill side, through a crack to the ledge and left to the ring. Through a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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