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Climbing at Lusatian Mountains

3192 routes
5 areas
1–10 grades

The Lusatian Mountains lie in northern Bohemia on the border with Saxony, between Nový Bor, Jablonné v Podještědí and Jiřetín pod Jedlovou, and continue into the German Zittau Mountains. The protected landscape area is made of wooded hills, some of them volcanic bodies exhumed from Cretaceous sediments – such as Jezevčí vrch of sodalite trachyte, protected as a national nature reserve – with sandstone rock towns and viewpoints between them such as Popova skála, Krkavčí skály and the Sloní kameny natural monument.

Climbing is mainly on firm sandstone. The best-known crags are Horní skály (Obrvégry) near Rynoltice, also suitable for beginners, and Falkenstein with Sokolík and the Cvičná věž towers above Dolní Světlá. Many routes at Horní skály were first climbed more than a century ago, some in 1904. Chalk is banned in the Lusatian and Jizera Mountains climbing areas and the sandstone rules apply. For Horní skály, park about 3 km from Rynoltice along road 13 just before the village; for Falkenstein, park free at the upper end of Dolní Světlá and follow the green trail to the border barrier, then 300 m left to the towers. Climbing is possible most of the year; summer weekends get crowded.

Part of Czech Republic, Lusatian Mountains has 3192 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 5 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Traditional Climbing, Sport Climbing.

Rules

On sandstone the ČHS sandstone rules apply – no chalk, no metal protection and dry rock only. On other rock the ČHS rules for Czech rock areas apply.

Much of the area lies in the Lusatian Mountains PLA. Check the ČHS crag database for any closures before you go.

8+/9-
Ponorka
To the left of "Persecuted Faith" to BH, above it to the left with an overhang and… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Oltář
With the wall across the fault and BH n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Oltář
In the right part of the W wall directly across BH n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Oltář
From "Trinity Tower" with the wall to the right of the S edge directly n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Oltář
From the foreground rock from the NE, an overhang n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Oltář
From the center of the east wall, diagonally left to the chimney and over the BH n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Oltář
From the NE, up the wide chimney between the foreground rock and the tower, directly n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Oltář
Through the center of the north plateau wall to a block and over the ledges n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Horní věž
Up the valley SW slabby wall and corner with an overhang n. v. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Danger
2
Horní věž
From the gorge, up the wall to the W ridge and along it n. v. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
1
Horní věž
In the right part of the plateau wall, up the arbitrarily articulated wall n. v. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6+
Horní věž
To the left in the valley wall, over BH on a ledge and over 3 bolts n. v. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
7-
Horní věž
Far right in the valley wall, up the overhanging wall over 3 bolts and then up the wall n… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Horní věž
3m to the right of "Bachyní hovězí třikrát" (Bachyni's beef three times), straight up the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Danger
4
Horní věž
Up the SE edge n. v. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6
Horní věž
To the right of "Tiramisu", up the small wall to a ledge and over the BH, up the wall… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
6
Horní věž
Up the valley wall over 9 drilled anchors n. v. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Horní věž
Through the center of the eastern triangular wall, directly n. v. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
2
Horní věž
3 meters to the right of the "North Edge" route, up the wall n. v. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Horní věž
To the right of the "Northwest Wall" route, up the wall over 2 BH n. v. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
2
Horní věž
Directly with the edge n. v. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4
Trubač
Directly up the wall n. v. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay
2
Trubač
Through a crack and a wall n. v. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6
Trubač
Overhanging W edge n. v. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
2
Horní věž
Up the plateau wall n. v. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Trubač
Completely to the right in the valley wall, up a fine crack in the notch and up the wall… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3
Trubač
3 m to the right of "Západní hrana" (West Edge), up a shallow gully and along the left… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
2
Trubač
Up the wall diagonally to the left, or directly up the wall from the valley to the S edge… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
2
Trubač
To the right of "Lišejníková cesta" (Lichen Path), up steps to a small balcony and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
3
Trubač
To the right in the valley wall, briefly up a corner crack, then to the right to the edge… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1

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